Tries?

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Yasmeen
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Post by Yasmeen »

SCIN wrote:we can finally put to rest the infamous "Is Ro Shampo a 5.12a route" question
Really, everything SCIN does with the online guidebook is so that he can put to rest the Ro Shampo question. The consensus ratings, the number of tries, all of it. Some day...
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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TankAzz
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Post by TankAzz »

chriss wrote:Any time your feet leave the ground it’s a try.

Some food for thought. If up high on a route you can work the hell out of a crux, while still on the same "try", why should it count as multiple tries if you work from the ground to the first bolt multiple tries without untying the rope?

I think it is multiple tries, but curious what others have to say.
interesting point...
i do agree that every time feet leave the ground, it's a try (even if you whif the first move and blow off the start hold). however, i am definitely guilty of working the shit out of a crux on a route i think i can do second "try." usually i just state that i did that when i spray later, but perhaps it should count as several tries.
this problem doesn't come up in bouldering... you fall, you hit the ground, that's a try..... yet another reason why bouldering is superior to routes :wink:
woman
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Post by woman »

I don't know about bouldering being superior to routes...but working the crux of a route and then sending it Definately counts as more than 2 tries...
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Saxman
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Post by Saxman »

Everytime you weight the rope or clip in is a try whether you are lowered to the ground or not.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

Tries are redpoint burns in the elite climbing world (Graham, Sharma, etc.) so there's no reason it should be any different for us mortals.
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Yasmeen
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Post by Yasmeen »

I don't know, SCIN. I heard that professional climbers are hiring retired WalMart greeters to stand at the base while they're climbing with their little clicky customer-counting tools and tally each fall and take so that they can more accurately report their "number of tries."
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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chriss
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Post by chriss »

Saxman wrote:Everytime you weight the rope or clip in is a try
Really So if I took at every bolt, I could be at try 10 when I get to the anchors. Well, maybe it will go on my 11 try, when I leave the ground for the second time?

I disagree, I think each time you leave the ground is a try.
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krampus
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Post by krampus »

I think all points are valid but there is that grey area when you overwork a crux on toprope and only count it as one try, or fall on the first move or ... In any case, I think if you question the validy of putting two tries down on a rout you just spent 3 hours on then you should utalize the "unknown" option. But whatever lets you sleep at night. :P
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512OW
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Post by 512OW »

I'm in the "feet leave the ground=try" club (unless you climb back down to start again...).

I record my tries mostly so I can see my progression. I was only going to record harder routes, but its easier to just get in the habit with all routes.

I can't imagine that there are many (meaning, I only know of a few) Red River routes where you would have to work the shit out of the crux... unless you're making the effort to get on something way harder than you should be on...

Also, I don't go for the whole endurance vs. power, tricky vs. straightforward, steep vs. slab argument. Its all climbing. Learn it.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
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512OW
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Post by 512OW »

I do have a question though... I onsighted Up Yonder eons ago... so if I go do it again, and continue up the upper half without falling, do I put 1 attempt at the full route, or 2?

Another tricky one...

I flashed Forearm Follies (albeit on TR) to the first anchors. A year later I came back, led the first half, and onsighted the second half. I put 2 attempts in my spray list for the full 12b route. Is that right?
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
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