Really, everything SCIN does with the online guidebook is so that he can put to rest the Ro Shampo question. The consensus ratings, the number of tries, all of it. Some day...SCIN wrote:we can finally put to rest the infamous "Is Ro Shampo a 5.12a route" question
Tries?
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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(Emails > PMs)
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(Emails > PMs)
interesting point...chriss wrote:Any time your feet leave the ground it’s a try.
Some food for thought. If up high on a route you can work the hell out of a crux, while still on the same "try", why should it count as multiple tries if you work from the ground to the first bolt multiple tries without untying the rope?
I think it is multiple tries, but curious what others have to say.
i do agree that every time feet leave the ground, it's a try (even if you whif the first move and blow off the start hold). however, i am definitely guilty of working the shit out of a crux on a route i think i can do second "try." usually i just state that i did that when i spray later, but perhaps it should count as several tries.
this problem doesn't come up in bouldering... you fall, you hit the ground, that's a try..... yet another reason why bouldering is superior to routes
I don't know, SCIN. I heard that professional climbers are hiring retired WalMart greeters to stand at the base while they're climbing with their little clicky customer-counting tools and tally each fall and take so that they can more accurately report their "number of tries."
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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(Emails > PMs)
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(Emails > PMs)
I think all points are valid but there is that grey area when you overwork a crux on toprope and only count it as one try, or fall on the first move or ... In any case, I think if you question the validy of putting two tries down on a rout you just spent 3 hours on then you should utalize the "unknown" option. But whatever lets you sleep at night.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
I'm in the "feet leave the ground=try" club (unless you climb back down to start again...).
I record my tries mostly so I can see my progression. I was only going to record harder routes, but its easier to just get in the habit with all routes.
I can't imagine that there are many (meaning, I only know of a few) Red River routes where you would have to work the shit out of the crux... unless you're making the effort to get on something way harder than you should be on...
Also, I don't go for the whole endurance vs. power, tricky vs. straightforward, steep vs. slab argument. Its all climbing. Learn it.
I record my tries mostly so I can see my progression. I was only going to record harder routes, but its easier to just get in the habit with all routes.
I can't imagine that there are many (meaning, I only know of a few) Red River routes where you would have to work the shit out of the crux... unless you're making the effort to get on something way harder than you should be on...
Also, I don't go for the whole endurance vs. power, tricky vs. straightforward, steep vs. slab argument. Its all climbing. Learn it.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
I do have a question though... I onsighted Up Yonder eons ago... so if I go do it again, and continue up the upper half without falling, do I put 1 attempt at the full route, or 2?
Another tricky one...
I flashed Forearm Follies (albeit on TR) to the first anchors. A year later I came back, led the first half, and onsighted the second half. I put 2 attempts in my spray list for the full 12b route. Is that right?
Another tricky one...
I flashed Forearm Follies (albeit on TR) to the first anchors. A year later I came back, led the first half, and onsighted the second half. I put 2 attempts in my spray list for the full 12b route. Is that right?
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com