Prime Directive
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marathonmedic
- Posts: 1557
- Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 3:01 am
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captain static
- Posts: 2438
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
PD was my first .11 sport redpoint. Mark Schorle was the person who tempted my over to the darkside of sport climbing in the early 80's. At that time I was firmly entrenched in the SCIN camp. He talked me into getting on Captain One Eye becaues it was "mixed" (yeah, one measly tricam). I had started down the slippery slope. Then he took me to FRC. That day I flashed PD on TR. I had to come back and lead it which I did the next trip down. That was freaky because in my early days of sport I was more afraid to fall on bolts that on gear. I have both seen and heard of .12 and .13 climbers either get spanked or have a significant struggle on PD.
One one occasion I put my partner up to an onsight attempt. After she got shut down at the crux another strong climber in our group went up and was stumped too. After several alternating flail attempts they begged me to put up the rest of the draws which I did and they kept working it but just couldn't get past that roof. Late in the day they finally gave up and the other two climbers in our group asked if I could go up and get the draws. Because I had my kids with me I said sorry, I have to get out of here with my kids before it gets dark. They ended up having to scramble to the top and rap down to get their draws. By the time they got down it was dark and on the way back they got lost in the woods. Finally they heard the sounds of party campers and were able to orient. They said they were never so happy to see some redneck partiers in their lives. I don't know if they've ever forgiven me for that epic?
One one occasion I put my partner up to an onsight attempt. After she got shut down at the crux another strong climber in our group went up and was stumped too. After several alternating flail attempts they begged me to put up the rest of the draws which I did and they kept working it but just couldn't get past that roof. Late in the day they finally gave up and the other two climbers in our group asked if I could go up and get the draws. Because I had my kids with me I said sorry, I have to get out of here with my kids before it gets dark. They ended up having to scramble to the top and rap down to get their draws. By the time they got down it was dark and on the way back they got lost in the woods. Finally they heard the sounds of party campers and were able to orient. They said they were never so happy to see some redneck partiers in their lives. I don't know if they've ever forgiven me for that epic?
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
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