Prime Directive

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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bcrock
Posts: 119
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2004 5:06 pm

Prime Directive

Post by bcrock »

Has anyone gotten hurt falling on Prine Directive?

I toproped PD in Oct 2003 (my first trip to the red). I got it clean. I know that TRing a climb like PD clean means nothing. I went back in the spring of 2004 hoping to lead it. PD was dry, but, all the warmup possibilities were wet. I wan't about to get on PD without being properly warmed up.

As I sat staring up at PD I couldn't help but imagine some bad ass falls, especially after you move left highter up.

Most of my climbing has been in southern California. I really like the steep climbing at the Red, however, when I first tasted Prime Directive I was in love.

Oh well, any input would be appreciated.

Bernie
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Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

I have taken a few falls on it. They are scary but I was alright. Just stay aware when you are falling. You can watch a video of someone taking a fall on it, on the trailer of Spencers video. Anyone know who that was falling on PD.
Living the dream
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Caspian
Posts: 348
Joined: Mon May 05, 2003 9:28 pm

Post by Caspian »

I took a pretty good fall climbing above the lip on the right....I thought it would be a wierd fall, but i never even touched the rock.
Last edited by Caspian on Fri Feb 25, 2005 7:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"how ironic....now he's blind after a life of enjoying being able to see."~Homer
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anticlmber
Posts: 3393
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 12:34 am

Post by anticlmber »

the fall is fine, the one over the roof is the one most worry about, its cool. remember though...if your belayer sucks ass you might eat it but thats on anything. the climber is dave from philly.
Like me on facebook but hate me in real life
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Stewy911
Posts: 649
Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:27 am

Post by Stewy911 »

that thing looks sweet never been on it! but im sure the fall depends on your belayer as it always does.
Who Me? I gotta hitch hike god damn 18 miles to get a god damn beer......that's bullshit.
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captain static
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Post by captain static »

Make sure to have a long draw for the roof clip.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
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J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

I hurt my ego falling past the roof on Prime Directive. That's a stout 11b, but really rad.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
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Guest

Post by Guest »

OMG I love Prime Directive!! I've only top roped it, but I WILL send that route one day. So effin sweet.
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Horatio Felacio
Posts: 3338
Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm

Post by Horatio Felacio »

you just said, "effin sweet". you're an effin doofus.

that's the best .11 in the gorge....maybe.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
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pawilkes
Posts: 1570
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 5:45 am

Post by pawilkes »

im happy this thread came along, i was talking about PD the other day with this guy and i couldn't remember the name of the route. i'd love to get back on that thing this summer and send it. ubber scary though.
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.
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