Yeah, I agree....and to all those people getting mad cause their cars keep getting broken into...some one is just going to break into them somewhere else anyways...so please, nobody use that "security" bull$hit line.
Cause, as long as it happens somewhere, its ok that it happens everywhere...right?
Anyways, I am sure Loren with get right on Eureka seeing as he is going easy routes up.
So what every happend with eurika?
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marathonmedic
- Posts: 1557
- Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 3:01 am
I totally agree with Rainman on this one. Chopping that route was an incredible example of greediness on somebody's part. I finally got a chance to lead some trad last weekend (thanks again Norma) and totally loved it. I look forward to getting the finances to start buying my own rack and doing more of it, too. As a result of that enlightening experience I'm now totally against bolting trad routes whereas I was on the fence before.
I do have a serious question though and hopefully won't get flamed too much for it. What about these X-rated routes? Might it be a decent idea to stick in a bolt to make it a mixed climb instead of having something so potentially dangerous that almost nobody cilmbs them? Where do you draw the line between mixed and trad?
Just looking for a bit of advice/guidance. Thx.
I do have a serious question though and hopefully won't get flamed too much for it. What about these X-rated routes? Might it be a decent idea to stick in a bolt to make it a mixed climb instead of having something so potentially dangerous that almost nobody cilmbs them? Where do you draw the line between mixed and trad?
Just looking for a bit of advice/guidance. Thx.
Ticking is gym climbing outdoors.
Some climbs seem to push the limit and have a lot of history in how they were first done and certain ethics that were used. There are things that should be preserved for the few who have the ability to do them in the same style and history.
Chipping holds is a bit more taboo. Most People agree that chipping holds to bring a climb down to ones own ability is not very justifiable. Most believe that these harder climbs should be left to challenge those that have the ability to climb them, and that there are a lifetime of other easier climbs that will employ less impact.
Bolting a climb or even how it is bolted completely changes a climb and the style of the climb. If it didn't, then no one would be arguing about Eureka. I think it is a argument of style and ability...and are people ready to lower the bar, give up the style of the FA, and the history of the climb for one more route they can tick off there list. In terms of physical difficulty, most believe that the climbs should be climbed by those who have the ability...I don’t see how that is different for certain heady "X" rated routes. In many ways, it doesn’t seem too far off from chipping a route.
Chipping holds is a bit more taboo. Most People agree that chipping holds to bring a climb down to ones own ability is not very justifiable. Most believe that these harder climbs should be left to challenge those that have the ability to climb them, and that there are a lifetime of other easier climbs that will employ less impact.
Bolting a climb or even how it is bolted completely changes a climb and the style of the climb. If it didn't, then no one would be arguing about Eureka. I think it is a argument of style and ability...and are people ready to lower the bar, give up the style of the FA, and the history of the climb for one more route they can tick off there list. In terms of physical difficulty, most believe that the climbs should be climbed by those who have the ability...I don’t see how that is different for certain heady "X" rated routes. In many ways, it doesn’t seem too far off from chipping a route.
Rain Man, I was anwering part of his original question. Phil wanted to know if any new Trad Routes were being bolted to take the place of Eureka. I couldn't tell him whether or not Eureka had been rebolted, as I haven't been up to that route recently. In fact, I have my doubts that the bolts were actually chopped this time.Rain Man wrote:This is amusing and all, but I don't think anyone has answered the guy's original question; will Eureka be rebolted?
However, I could answer his question about bolted trad routes, by letting him in on the campaign's action plan. Sadly, I can do nothing about Eureka, as I have always known it as a sport route. It is outside the scope of our plan.
Vic, Thank you very much for the net idea. Although Yas and I had initially planned only to bolt trad routes, we have now expanded our campaign to include high-ball boulder problems (eight feet or more) as well as steep approach trails (Torrent, Dip Wall, etc.). So, I think that the net idea really has some merrit. We will consider it when the budget allows.
Again, thanks all for the positive feed back.
Loren
Can we also bull doze and put a rode in and have parking spaces by each climb on road side? Then it would really be road side! That will make it safer to! Also lets put in rebar on them hard to clip places, we dont want no one to take a fall on a slab while clipping! Also a ale 8 michine next to each climb would also be nice, and shine my shoes while your at it.
Hell yeah! I'm now giving up any climbs with more than 10 moves in it. Geez, this will make it so much easier to carry the rope. In my case, I'll start carrying the rope. You're the best Loren and Yas! You should get Superhero bolting tights.we have now expanded our campaign to include high-ball boulder problems (eight feet or more) as well as steep approach trails (Torrent, Dip Wall, etc.).