ReBolting the Mother Lode

[pigsteak]

that my friends is the best example of subtle spray this site has ever received...well done danggreentea....

dustin, where is the lode again?

[climb2core]

Subtle spray??? What are you talking about? Nothing subtle about that

[Andrew]

My dad, alex southward, and I made it rain today at the lode. Seven fixed lines strung, 6 routes drilled top to bottom. Dual Bosch's blazing, dust flying, the rttatatatataatatattaatatatatataa of progress. If Dustin will follow suit we will have nice shiny glue-ins installed from Stella to the Verdict very soon.

Also, please don't take my gear off these routes. I set it up so that people can still climb them and clip the anchors like normal even with the fixed lines hanging.

[dan4geng]

that my friends is the best example of subtle spray this site has ever received...well done danggreentea....

dustin, where is the lode again?

ok... I got a little carried away. The thought of climbing at the Red gets me all excited. But I´m more of a matte fan.

[the lurkist]

damn boys. nice work.

[Andrew]

I will be drilling Chainsaw, Ale8, and Convicted soon. Can anyone give me some suggestions for bolt placements. I have done Chainsaw and Ale8, and don't recall anything bad, but I don't know about Convicted. I climb them before I drill them so I can figure some stuff out on my own, but community consensus would be nice so I don't get people complaining.

[dustonian]

People will be complaining no matter where you put the holes, it's what climbers do...

Chainsaw is a tricky one because for me it is a good route marred by a couple poor bolt placements and cruxy clips. If it were up to me, I would "fix" a couple clips, but that would certainly change the nature of the climb--maybe even bring it down to feeling like 12a! Let's see what the "community" thinks... I'm inclined to say leave it for historical purposes, so when visitors bitch about the clips we can say "blame the FA"..?

Ale-8 has been rebolted at least twice already, with lots holes around and chopped bolts, and is in decent shape. That said, the lower hangers are already pretty rusted... it may be one to do later rather than now, but no harm in drilling it now I guess? All the clips are pretty easy.

I'll ask Lena what she thinks about Convicted. That route is a already a masterpiece as-is IMO.

Just keep in mind your freakish height when considering hole placements.... but of course you already do this.

Thanks Wheatleys!

[Andrew]

Don't give me that height crap. In most cases I have been lowering bolts, not raising them, so suck it complainer.

[dustonian]

Lena says she thinks all the clips on Convicted are good, except maybe the bolt with the double draw could come down and use a single draw instead.

[the lurkist]

I would leave them true to the original placements as much as possible unless they are clearly bad. That said, I am unaware of really bad placements on the UT.