Lead belay question

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Frogger
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Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 4:15 pm

Lead belay question

Post by Frogger »

General question about lead belay:

Should the belayer always be within arm's length of the wall, or directly below the first bolt while belaying?

The reason I ask, it seems that whenever my belayer stands away from the wall ~8ft, he tends to give me a really hard catch. Seems like he simply gets dragged towards the wall, instead of jumping up. Most of the shocks seems to be taken up by the rope stretch and my back. Even if he did jump, by standing farther from the wall, it seems like unnecessary extra rope in the system that will increase the length of the fall.

He tends to dis-agree with me on this point and I see a lot of people regularly standing away from the wall/first bolt. I feel like a dick asking him to stand closer to the wall, so I want to make sure that I am correct on this point and not missing something.
pkananen
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Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 2:20 am

Re: Lead belay question

Post by pkananen »

I generally am right under the bolt (or slightly to the side, so I'm not right under the climber) until they are at bolt 4 or 5, then I back up a bit.
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tbwilsonky
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Re: Lead belay question

Post by tbwilsonky »

pkananen wrote:I generally am right under the bolt (or slightly to the side, so I'm not right under the climber) until they are at bolt 4 or 5, then I back up a bit.
yep. tell your buddy to get with the program.
haunted.
Andrew
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Re: Lead belay question

Post by Andrew »

yep
Living the dream
bcrock
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Re: Lead belay question

Post by bcrock »

Get a new belay person.
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pigsteak
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Re: Lead belay question

Post by pigsteak »

stay in the gym
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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Josephine
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Re: Lead belay question

Post by Josephine »

bcrock wrote:Get a new belay person.
+1
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun
Brentucky
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:04 am

Re: Lead belay question

Post by Brentucky »

In climbing I don't think the belayer should "always" be anything, other than aware. In general you are correct and your buddy is wrong.
efil lanrete... i enjoy the sound, but in truth i find this seductively backward idea to be quite frightening
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krampus
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Re: Lead belay question

Post by krampus »

maybe not in general, but this time at least
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
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