General question about lead belay:
Should the belayer always be within arm's length of the wall, or directly below the first bolt while belaying?
The reason I ask, it seems that whenever my belayer stands away from the wall ~8ft, he tends to give me a really hard catch. Seems like he simply gets dragged towards the wall, instead of jumping up. Most of the shocks seems to be taken up by the rope stretch and my back. Even if he did jump, by standing farther from the wall, it seems like unnecessary extra rope in the system that will increase the length of the fall.
He tends to dis-agree with me on this point and I see a lot of people regularly standing away from the wall/first bolt. I feel like a dick asking him to stand closer to the wall, so I want to make sure that I am correct on this point and not missing something.
Lead belay question
Re: Lead belay question
I generally am right under the bolt (or slightly to the side, so I'm not right under the climber) until they are at bolt 4 or 5, then I back up a bit.
- tbwilsonky
- Posts: 868
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 9:38 pm
Re: Lead belay question
yep. tell your buddy to get with the program.pkananen wrote:I generally am right under the bolt (or slightly to the side, so I'm not right under the climber) until they are at bolt 4 or 5, then I back up a bit.
haunted.
- climb2core
- Posts: 2224
- Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm
Re: Lead belay question
Get a new belay person.
Re: Lead belay question
+1bcrock wrote:Get a new belay person.
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun
Re: Lead belay question
In climbing I don't think the belayer should "always" be anything, other than aware. In general you are correct and your buddy is wrong.
efil lanrete... i enjoy the sound, but in truth i find this seductively backward idea to be quite frightening
Re: Lead belay question
maybe not in general, but this time at least
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