"Seam" route at Chocolate Factory

Post by **MADMIKE** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 1:05 am

I switched out the chains today with some beefier ones. Also removed the stray bolt. The route will go on gear, around a 5.12aR. Open Project.

Post by **pigsteak** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 1:38 am

so no bolts...just anchors?

thanks for throwing out the gaunlet madmike....

Post by **dustonian** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 2:06 am

Shamelessly TR'ed this today with Mike & Ron...it is a spicy and bad-ass route!! Safe if you find the pro...top will be heady fer sure! Thanx guys for setting this one up!

So did ya get the anchor in on that crack to the left? That thing looks bitchin!

Post by **ynp1** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 3:41 am

MADMIKE, fuck yeah it's an open project... you can't red tag a crack, can you??? all trad routes have been open projects... you did not put up the crack, god did!!!

Post by JR » Sun Apr 11, 2010 4:01 am

ynp1 wrote:MADMIKE, fuck yeah it's an open project... you can't red tag a crack, can you??? all trad routes have been open projects... you did not put up the crack, god did!!!

I was guessing the stray bolt meant that it was a "closed crack project" a la All that Glitters. But now that the stray bolt is gone.....game on!

Post by **dustonian** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 4:32 am

Oh god, roll out the gurneys. Hey, that's a good name for this thing!

Post by **ynp1** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 4:34 am

JR, I think that the All that Glitters thing was also kind of wrong, but Blake also said that anybody could try the climb... i think that was very respectable!

I think it would be a bad trend to set, that if you pound a bolt next to a crack that you can then red tag it.

i dont think mike was saying that it was closed before, but somebody could read this and think they can place a bolt on a crack and then they have the right to close the route. i think we can all agree that no good would come from that.

it would be better to leave a RED #1 BD on the route. then i would have a large number of #1 cams. 8)

Post by **pigsteak** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 2:25 pm

Are we to assume you are now projecting this ynp? From the sounds of the vitrolic god like mandate you just set, pretty much sure you were saying you intended to send.

and since "god put up the crack" and not MADMIKE, please refrain from using the anchors Mike did install...we wouldn't want God to be pissed ya know.

I am sure Blake was thinking of you...

And MADMIKE, just say the word and I'll pull the anchors for you...sounds like instead of saying "thanks for the effort, they are saying F you"

once again, just another reason to to keep all the new areas secret until we are finished doing what we love..

Post by **dustonian** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 3:32 pm

Yeah what a spraylord. And he'll be the first one to start bawling when he breaks his leg on this thing too. Remember, it ain't trad if you toprope it first ladies.

Post by **rjackson** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 3:46 pm

dustonian wrote:Remember, it ain't trad if you toprope it first ladies.

That's one school of thought...

Seems there was another thread not to long ago that stated that the only that thing matters, and is remembered, is the FFA. You can be a purest, but then you better heed pigsteak's advice, and skip the bolted anchors as that would negate the 'trad' send.

And speaking of anchors. Dustonian: If you want to put the anchors on the line to the left, feel free. I'll get there, but I'm in no hurry. Mike (madmike) has taken the line above the logical conclusion (IMO), but not topped it out. His name should be included should you place the anchors. ALSO Mike seems to be out there a bit, he may want to put them in as well.