"Seam" route at Chocolate Factory

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Sandman
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Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:42 pm

"Seam" route at Chocolate Factory

Post by Sandman »

Wondering if anyone knows anything about the angling seam route to the left of "Through The Looking Glass" Starts as about 25 feet of choss, to a 30ft left angling thin seam to a face with one bolt and chain anchors. I feel it needs it needs to be listed in the online guide somehow to alert people that this is a dangerous route possibly. So no one makes the mistake thinking its something else and attempts to lead it w/o knowing. I tried it 3 days ago... and fell about 7-8 feet into the seam after only finding one marginal micro-cam placement, which blew, resulting in a very hard slam into the slab ramp below which busted my ankle a little. But this fall could have been MUCH worse. Any info will be helpful... for me... and others.
Its all about Style....
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

That's the 5.7 that what's his face's little girl put up.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
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Jeff
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Post by Jeff »

Old man what's his faces' daughter is bad ass! Juanita Whatshisface.
Sandman, there was a looong thread about it awhile back.
Search for bolting a crack or something similar. Or just browse old posts and look for the ones with alot of pages.
Sandman
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Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:42 pm

Post by Sandman »

Searched around the forums and cant find this heated discussion.... if someone could steer me in the right direction that would be great.
Its all about Style....
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bcombs
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Post by bcombs »

I think this may be the thread in question:

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... sc&start=0
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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak »

zach, the original equippers said they would fix it.....my vote is to either strip it or make it a full on sport route....what's your thoughts? I have no problems just bolting it.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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ynp1
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Post by ynp1 »

they thought that it might go as a mixed climb, but i think the idea was to go back and bolt the whole route, PM MADMIKE and ask him directly.
I don't have haters, I have fans in denial.
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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak »

I was there the day the lone bolt was installed, and I beleive they said it was not a good bolt. like ynp said...
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
dustonian
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Post by dustonian »

The gear's really shite on it, huh? It would be kind of nice to have another trad line at CF if the gear is reasonable, but... well, I'm sure this dead horse has already been beaten to death long ago.
Last edited by dustonian on Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
flashmaster
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Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 7:00 pm

Post by flashmaster »

Well Zac, I think this answers the question go back and send bro!!! Bones heal!!!
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