Power / Power Endurance / Endurance
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the lurkist
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Myke Dronez
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heidiramma
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tbwilsonky
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- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 9:38 pm
i'm sorta runnin a PE workout right now. i'll share:
i basically rotate 4 different routines to avoid boredom.
1) 4 x 4: four timed boulder problems with a rest commensurable with time on rock. 15 minute rest and repeat.
2) Active Rest 4 x 4: four boulder problems with a good rest and an easy downclimb. quite a bit harder than the 4 x 4 because you add 20 some moves in the downclimbing and get 0 no hands rests. also seems better for (re)creating route conditions and allows one to get a good feel for their pump threshold.
3) hit strip/campus run laddering: this is somewhat specific to my wall, but is not so complex as to not be reproduced elsewhere. in this routine i basically use (pad sized) crimps on the nicros hit strips, climb to the top, feet-on ladder up a set of nicros campus rungs just above the strips, head back down and repeat to failure. i follow this with a 2 minutes rest and repeat the sequence 3 times. i really like this workout because I always end due to my inability to pull more semi-hard moves. the 4 x 4 is fun, but sometimes my failure can be attributed to a non-forearm node in the body network that helps us "make with the climbing". it's also nice if you're into quantifying gains and/or need some non-yds off-season numbers to make training more rewarding.
4) 5/10's: using the same hit strip/campus rung stack, i do a similar laddering routine but instead of trying to move quickly between holds, i dead hang the large crimps for 10 seconds an arm and the campus rungs for 5.
that's it.
tommy
http://bluegrassbouldering.wordpress.com
i basically rotate 4 different routines to avoid boredom.
1) 4 x 4: four timed boulder problems with a rest commensurable with time on rock. 15 minute rest and repeat.
2) Active Rest 4 x 4: four boulder problems with a good rest and an easy downclimb. quite a bit harder than the 4 x 4 because you add 20 some moves in the downclimbing and get 0 no hands rests. also seems better for (re)creating route conditions and allows one to get a good feel for their pump threshold.
3) hit strip/campus run laddering: this is somewhat specific to my wall, but is not so complex as to not be reproduced elsewhere. in this routine i basically use (pad sized) crimps on the nicros hit strips, climb to the top, feet-on ladder up a set of nicros campus rungs just above the strips, head back down and repeat to failure. i follow this with a 2 minutes rest and repeat the sequence 3 times. i really like this workout because I always end due to my inability to pull more semi-hard moves. the 4 x 4 is fun, but sometimes my failure can be attributed to a non-forearm node in the body network that helps us "make with the climbing". it's also nice if you're into quantifying gains and/or need some non-yds off-season numbers to make training more rewarding.
4) 5/10's: using the same hit strip/campus rung stack, i do a similar laddering routine but instead of trying to move quickly between holds, i dead hang the large crimps for 10 seconds an arm and the campus rungs for 5.
that's it.
tommy
http://bluegrassbouldering.wordpress.com