Power / Power Endurance / Endurance

[bcombs]

Lately I've been talking to anyone that will listen about my training routine. I'm trying to refine it as best as possible given the equiptment setup I have. I was talking to a friend last week about this power training method I've been using and he thought that it was actually more of a power endurance or borderline endurance workout.

The setup:


I have a 55 degree wall that is 12 feet long and 8 feet wide (3 plywood panels stacked horizontally). There are 10 rails made from offset 2x4's that are 1 pad deep. Because of where your hands start (2 up from the bottom) you can get 8 movements per rep or 16 if you do hand matching the whole way.

The set:
I do 6 reps. Each rep I just go to failure. The reps consist of:
1) Open hand crimp up and down
2) Half closed crimp up and down
3) Three fingers (index, middle, ring) up (I can't come down yet )
4) Closed crimp and matching hands (16 movements) up and down
5) Crossovers starting on the right up and down
6) Crossovers starting on the left up and down

Usually by the end of the workout (last two sets) I can only go up and usually fall of when starting back down the wall.

I've been doing this training 2 times a week pretty consistently for the last 2 months. I've seen some really great gains from it (spray: I went from 1 5.12 on my tick list to 7 including my first 12b). My crimp strength has improved dramatically.

So in terms of differentiating between power / power endurance / endurance, what am I doing here? How could I modify it to meet the criteria for one of the other options? If I can go up and down one time successfully on each rep is it time to add weight (I'm starting to think so)? Any other ideas on how to use the same setup but work on a different area?

You can just tell me to fuck off if you want.

[SCIN]

Cool wall. Sounds like you're training High Intensity Power Endurance according to madman trainer Andy Raether. Here's his Power Endurance routine:

"Training PE
The Treadwall, a vertical treadmill with medium-sized holds that can tip as steep as 45 degrees overhanging, has taken on a prominent role. I’ve taken my lead from European climbers, who love their Treadwall mileage.

I climb on four “routes,â€

[SCIN]

...........it's debatable though. When I do 4X4 training (4 problems, 4 times, with 4 minutes rest between each 4) I consider it power endurance training. If I'm falling because I'm pumped then I call it power endurance training.

However, if I'm training power, I'll be falling because of strength, not a pump. I don't think you should get a pump when you're training power.

[krampus]

just out of curriosity, what is supporting the back of your wall. I see a 2x6 but how many do you have running the length of your setup.

[Wes]

55 degree is too steep to me. I think the best angles are around 15 and around 30. That lets you use smaller holds and feet. Big steep roof climbing is the same as pull ups with some core training (aka situps), more or less.

[bcombs]

just out of curriosity, what is supporting the back of your wall. I see a 2x6 but how many do you have running the length of your setup.

The 55 degree wall actually meets a 30 degree section (out of view) and is attached to that near the ceiling. The 30 degree section is attached to the ceiling on sleepers. The 2x10's that go from the middle of the wall to the floor are attached to a 2x10 section that is bolted to the concrete floor. They were added to keep the wall from wanting to flex and twist.

The kickwall at the bottom on the 55 degree wall is also bolted to the floor.

The 15 degree wall (you see it kind of on the left hand side of the picture) is also attached to sleepers. There is a secondary (22 degree) section that connects the 15 and 30. It's kind of a weird setup because it was built over time. I'm planning to add on another 4 panels or so of climbing in the next couple of weeks. It took the wife awhile to give up on parking in the garage.

[bcombs]

55 degree is too steep to me. I think the best angles are around 15 and around 30. That lets you use smaller holds and feet. Big steep roof climbing is the same as pull ups with some core training (aka situps), more or less.

I tend to agree. A friend asked me what steepness to make his new home wall and I said 30. He was suprised by that. I think alot of it is what are you after? My 30 degree section definitely gives more possibilities than the 55 degree.

[Wes]

Yeah, smaller holds on less steep walls seem to build more contact strength then bigger holds on steeper walls. Also, I really believe in cycling the training focus. If you have been doing this for a couple months, then it is time to move to something new (maybe 4 x 4's on the 30).

[caribe]

kool wall brad!

[Andrew]

I say its endurance training. Not really any power involved, and I have been on his wall.

If you want power endurance, do the same type of thing but skip rungs, and then match.