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Rockwars
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 2:54 pm
by kymonkey
I've heard its a "Red must do" and I was wondering what the pro's like because the guide doesn't say anything about it, or many of the other routes at that. What is a common rack for leading at the Red? Not to into butt jams or stacking so I don't carry big bro's, offwidth is not my forte.
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 3:08 pm
by Pru
I think it'd be cool to do all passive. Especially once those flakes start flexing!
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 3:47 pm
by Gaar
For rock wars its good to have 3 or so mid size stoppers, 2 grey bd (or yellow tcu), one or two purple bd, and a green for after the bolt....have fun....
get on Autumn, and Vector Trouble if thats the grade your looking for..
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 4:00 pm
by pawilkes
you should be able to do rockwars on a standard rack. i was able to protect the bit before the first set of anchors with nuts and maybe a few small cams and then .75-1 camalots for the top
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 4:39 pm
by Pru
there goes his onsight
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 6:04 pm
by 512OW
Pru wrote:I think it'd be cool to do all passive. Especially once those flakes start flexing!
Thats how I did it the first several times I climbed it. When you don't have cams, you don't need cams...
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 10:13 pm
by ynot
its a finger crack mr. monkey, and its pretty long .
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 10:27 pm
by dmw
did you just call him monkey? why is that so funny to me????
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 10:34 pm
by ynot
I was just answering the original poster dmw.
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 11:20 pm
by dmw
I know it is funny.