Rockwars

Post by **kymonkey** » Tue May 08, 2007 2:54 pm

I've heard its a "Red must do" and I was wondering what the pro's like because the guide doesn't say anything about it, or many of the other routes at that. What is a common rack for leading at the Red? Not to into butt jams or stacking so I don't carry big bro's, offwidth is not my forte.

Pru · Post by **Pru** » Tue May 08, 2007 3:08 pm

I think it'd be cool to do all passive. Especially once those flakes start flexing!

Post by **Gaar** » Tue May 08, 2007 3:47 pm

For rock wars its good to have 3 or so mid size stoppers, 2 grey bd (or yellow tcu), one or two purple bd, and a green for after the bolt....have fun....

get on Autumn, and Vector Trouble if thats the grade your looking for..

Post by **pawilkes** » Tue May 08, 2007 4:00 pm

you should be able to do rockwars on a standard rack. i was able to protect the bit before the first set of anchors with nuts and maybe a few small cams and then .75-1 camalots for the top

Pru · Post by **Pru** » Tue May 08, 2007 4:39 pm

there goes his onsight

Post by **512OW** » Tue May 08, 2007 6:04 pm

Pru wrote:I think it'd be cool to do all passive. Especially once those flakes start flexing!

Thats how I did it the first several times I climbed it. When you don't have cams, you don't need cams...

Post by **ynot** » Tue May 08, 2007 10:13 pm

its a finger crack mr. monkey, and its pretty long .

Post by **dmw** » Tue May 08, 2007 10:27 pm

did you just call him monkey? why is that so funny to me????

Post by **ynot** » Tue May 08, 2007 10:34 pm

I was just answering the original poster dmw.

Post by **dmw** » Tue May 08, 2007 11:20 pm

I know it is funny.