suggestions for building bouldering wall
suggestions for building bouldering wall
i'm building a bouldering wall in my basement. the ceilings are a little over 9 feet high. i was going to put a 15 degree on one side and a 45 degree on the other wall connected by a roof section. any suggestions(such as types of materials) to make this dream a reality would be great. also, if anybody knows any good websites on building bouldering walls would be appreciated! thanks everybody and see at the red soon!!!!!!!!!
"I mainly know 'bout possums."
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check out metolius' website. they seem to have some good information on building walls.
http://metoliusclimbing.com/HowtoBuilda ... ngWall.pdf
http://metoliusclimbing.com/HowtoBuilda ... ngWall.pdf
"There's nothin' as dirty as money."
-Goose Creek Symphony
-Goose Creek Symphony
3/4-inch plywood, 2x6 wall studs, SCREWED...not nailed...construction, LOTS of T-nuts and bolts, holds, some carpentry skills (I built one, so my guess is that pretty much any nut job that can hold a beer in one hand and a saw or drill in the other can put one together too).
Mj
Mj
...quitting drinking is kinda like washing your hands after you take a crap...why start now?
I'm with Reachhigh here, I had trouble with someT-nuts not being set properly and found that using a 7/16" bit and and then placing the T-nuts on the board and actually pulling them into place with a hex wrench and a board with oversized washers got me better results than hammering in the T-nuts, I hope this doesn't sound as confusing as it does writing it.
Put the sheet of plywood on a flat concrete floor when you hammer in the T-nuts. They drive much easier that way. And don't buy the cheap T-nuts. I had three different kinds of T-nuts and the Metolius T-Nuts were by far the easiest to hammer in. Sort through the pile and pick out the best sheets of 3/4" plywood at the store.
Another technique is to use a holesaw tod cut out circular peices of plywood then drill these and put the tnuts into. Then fasten these to the back of your 3/4 ply. Align the holes up before fastening. If you have a problem with stripped tnuts you can replace them without hurting your 3/4 ply.Crankmas wrote:I'm with Reachhigh here, I had trouble with someT-nuts not being set properly and found that using a 7/16" bit and and then placing the T-nuts on the board and actually pulling them into place with a hex wrench and a board with oversized washers got me better results than hammering in the T-nuts, I hope this doesn't sound as confusing as it does writing it.
Youe are also welcome to look at my wall if you are in louisville.
Use screw-ins if you can afford them. I use cheap pound-ins but they have held up okay. I also periodically lubricate and tap the threads on tnuts and bolts to keep things fastening smoothly. I still strip out every-once-in-ahwile though.TradMike wrote:Put the sheet of plywood on a flat concrete floor when you hammer in the T-nuts. They drive much easier that way. And don't buy the cheap T-nuts. I had three different kinds of T-nuts and the Metolius T-Nuts were by far the easiest to hammer in.