Page 1 of 5
This year's project route
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 8:33 am
by bryanboonern
I am looking for a route to work on for the next year. I currently lead 5.9 with occasional 5.10s. I would like to find an easier 11 to work out over the next season. Anyone have any ideas of a good project for me? Something with safe falls is a must. I was thinking maybe Aquaduck Pocket. Your feedback is much appreciated.
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 12:00 pm
by Spragwa
One of my favorites is Green Horn at Solar Collector. There's also Whipstocking at Drive By, though I don't know how the falls are down low. Good luck!
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 1:07 pm
by Andrew
Whipstocking, Air-ride, fuzzy undercling, my brain is not working well right now.
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 1:14 pm
by Toy
Anything on the 11's wall at torrent, or BBBB, Henry, King Me
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 1:16 pm
by chriss
fuzzy, up yonder, super dario, bandolier, ruby slippers, capture the flag, green horn, mona lisa, ...
Hopefully that gives you a couple more ideas.
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 1:31 pm
by Andy
Fuzzy is cool because it's boulder problem followed by a jug haul with a knee bar no hands rest in the middle. I'm sure its been many a red climbers first 11. If you like the jug haul over hung stuff you might try these 10ds first to kind of work up to it: Creep Show, Pulling Pockets, and Pocket Pussy. Have fun!
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:49 pm
by roots
I would have to second what Toy said. The .11s at Torrent I believe are quality routes with safe falls. Plus, you have easy warm-ups which is also something to think about. Rather than saying I want to do an easy 5.11....find a route that inspires YOU, no matter if it is hard .11d or easy .11a. King Me has to be one of my personal favorites! Beautiful line with varied climbing....you have it all. Crimps, pockets, pinches, underclings...overhang......slab. Nothing but fun!
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:54 pm
by Meadows
Spragwa wrote: There's also Whipstocking at Drive By, though I don't know how the falls are down low. Good luck!
We've lost a lot of good climbers on that route. Be careful! Also, it's only rated an .11 if you're hanging the draws in 90° temperatures with 100% humidity. FYI.
Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 1:09 am
by bryanboonern
Thanks for the info guys. I have been on fuzzy. Maybe my goal should just be to get a clean send on it.
Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:17 am
by Andrew
If you are currently working on Defy, you could try Maypop, but I personally don't like it. Or Maybe Aquaduct Pocket, but I think that route is worse.