This year's project route

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
bryanboonern
Posts: 41
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 2:48 am

This year's project route

Post by bryanboonern »

I am looking for a route to work on for the next year. I currently lead 5.9 with occasional 5.10s. I would like to find an easier 11 to work out over the next season. Anyone have any ideas of a good project for me? Something with safe falls is a must. I was thinking maybe Aquaduck Pocket. Your feedback is much appreciated.
You could slit my throat and with my one last gasping breath I'd apologize for bleeding on your shirt. - Taking Back Sunday
Spragwa
Posts: 3650
Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2003 4:05 pm

Post by Spragwa »

One of my favorites is Green Horn at Solar Collector. There's also Whipstocking at Drive By, though I don't know how the falls are down low. Good luck!
Jesus only knows that she tries too hard. She's only trying to keep the sky from falling.

-Everlast
Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

Whipstocking, Air-ride, fuzzy undercling, my brain is not working well right now.
Living the dream
Toy
Posts: 292
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 9:16 pm

Post by Toy »

Anything on the 11's wall at torrent, or BBBB, Henry, King Me
chriss
Posts: 354
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2003 11:02 am

Post by chriss »

fuzzy, up yonder, super dario, bandolier, ruby slippers, capture the flag, green horn, mona lisa, ...

Hopefully that gives you a couple more ideas.
Andy
Posts: 38
Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 9:48 pm

Post by Andy »

Fuzzy is cool because it's boulder problem followed by a jug haul with a knee bar no hands rest in the middle. I'm sure its been many a red climbers first 11. If you like the jug haul over hung stuff you might try these 10ds first to kind of work up to it: Creep Show, Pulling Pockets, and Pocket Pussy. Have fun!
roots
Posts: 58
Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 1:59 am

Post by roots »

I would have to second what Toy said. The .11s at Torrent I believe are quality routes with safe falls. Plus, you have easy warm-ups which is also something to think about. Rather than saying I want to do an easy 5.11....find a route that inspires YOU, no matter if it is hard .11d or easy .11a. King Me has to be one of my personal favorites! Beautiful line with varied climbing....you have it all. Crimps, pockets, pinches, underclings...overhang......slab. Nothing but fun!
JAY~BO
4:20
Meadows
Posts: 5395
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:03 pm

Post by Meadows »

Spragwa wrote: There's also Whipstocking at Drive By, though I don't know how the falls are down low. Good luck!
We've lost a lot of good climbers on that route. Be careful! Also, it's only rated an .11 if you're hanging the draws in 90° temperatures with 100% humidity. FYI.
bryanboonern
Posts: 41
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 2:48 am

Post by bryanboonern »

Thanks for the info guys. I have been on fuzzy. Maybe my goal should just be to get a clean send on it.
You could slit my throat and with my one last gasping breath I'd apologize for bleeding on your shirt. - Taking Back Sunday
Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

If you are currently working on Defy, you could try Maypop, but I personally don't like it. Or Maybe Aquaduct Pocket, but I think that route is worse.
Living the dream
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