RRC Archives

I was on awol at roadside crag friday and noticed that the screw link at the anchors is becoming badly worn. at present it appeared to be about one-third of the way worn through. this must be from people toproping through it or excessive lowering - or both. Please be careful cleaning it and rap down instead of lowering. I'd be glad to put a donation in the team suck jar at rro to fund a new link - if that's who takes care of roadside.

Step one: Go to Lowe's/home depot, etc. Buy new quicklink.
Step two: Climb awol. carrying new quicklink and adj. wrench.
Step three: Replace old quicklink with new one.

Repeat on whatever climbs need new quicklinks. Not rocket science at all.

PS, I almost never rap a route unless I think my rope will get messed up by lowering.

Thanks Wes, Wasn't sure of the route maintainence protocol and didn't know if it was an ordinary hardware store kind or not - didn't want to mess it up. I'd be glad to do it but i'll be out west for a week or so. I'll check it out when i get back.

I keep a couple quick links and rap rings and a small wrench in my pack, just in case. Anyone who climbs more then a couple times a month should do the same.

There is a benefit to Metolius Rap Hangers. Two horizontally placed Hangers discourage short sighted neophyte climbers who don't know better from top roping.
(I say this mostly tongue in cheek. I really don't like parallel placed anchors for many reason, mostly as Wes pointed out- they are a patented rope twisting machine.)

Step one: Get some fat-ass, who's ego matches his large ass, to repeatedly lower through anchors.
Step two: Let that same fat-ass, who thinks his something because he's replaced a few anchors to keep replacing all the anchors that every other fat-ass wears out.
Step three: Teach this to all new climbers who never give any thought to the effort involved in maintaining or bolting a route.
Step five: Replace the anchors annually as opposed to every five to 10 years (maybe 20).
Step four: Don't be a lazy fat-ass.

Smedley wrote:Step one: Get some fat-ass, who's ego matches his large ass, to repeatedly lower through anchors.
Step two: Let that same fat-ass, who thinks his something because he's replaced a few anchors to keep replacing all the anchors that every other fat-ass wears out.
Step three: Teach this to all new climbers who never give any thought to the effort involved in maintaining or bolting a route.
Step five: Replace the anchors annually as opposed to every five to 10 years (maybe 20).
Step four: Don't be a lazy fat-ass.

Don't they teach you that five comes after four up there in yankee land?

**Wes is part Yankee**

I guess 'Step Four' could follow any of the OBVIOUS no-no's when it comes to good route etiquette. I'm sure you get my point fat-boy.

Yea, because rapping is oh-so-much-less wear on the anchors. Or not? Fuck if I care. I mostly lower. Sometimes I rappel. I replace some anchors, don't replace others. Big deal.