Lowering from awol

Post by KD » Mon Jun 06, 2005 4:14 pm

I was on awol at roadside crag friday and noticed that the screw link at the anchors is becoming badly worn. at present it appeared to be about one-third of the way worn through. this must be from people toproping through it or excessive lowering - or both. Please be careful cleaning it and rap down instead of lowering. I'd be glad to put a donation in the team suck jar at rro to fund a new link - if that's who takes care of roadside.

Post by **Wes** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 4:18 pm

Step one: Go to Lowe's/home depot, etc. Buy new quicklink.
Step two: Climb awol. carrying new quicklink and adj. wrench.
Step three: Replace old quicklink with new one.

Repeat on whatever climbs need new quicklinks. Not rocket science at all.

PS, I almost never rap a route unless I think my rope will get messed up by lowering.

Post by KD » Mon Jun 06, 2005 4:23 pm

Thanks Wes, Wasn't sure of the route maintainence protocol and didn't know if it was an ordinary hardware store kind or not - didn't want to mess it up. I'd be glad to do it but i'll be out west for a week or so. I'll check it out when i get back.

Post by **Wes** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 4:25 pm

I keep a couple quick links and rap rings and a small wrench in my pack, just in case. Anyone who climbs more then a couple times a month should do the same.

Post by **the lurkist** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:05 pm

There is a benefit to Metolius Rap Hangers. Two horizontally placed Hangers discourage short sighted neophyte climbers who don't know better from top roping.
(I say this mostly tongue in cheek. I really don't like parallel placed anchors for many reason, mostly as Wes pointed out- they are a patented rope twisting machine.)

Post by **Smedley** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:37 pm

Step one: Get some fat-ass, who's ego matches his large ass, to repeatedly lower through anchors.
Step two: Let that same fat-ass, who thinks his something because he's replaced a few anchors to keep replacing all the anchors that every other fat-ass wears out.
Step three: Teach this to all new climbers who never give any thought to the effort involved in maintaining or bolting a route.
Step five: Replace the anchors annually as opposed to every five to 10 years (maybe 20).
Step four: Don't be a lazy fat-ass.

Post by **Wes** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:44 pm

Smedley wrote:Step one: Get some fat-ass, who's ego matches his large ass, to repeatedly lower through anchors.
Step two: Let that same fat-ass, who thinks his something because he's replaced a few anchors to keep replacing all the anchors that every other fat-ass wears out.
Step three: Teach this to all new climbers who never give any thought to the effort involved in maintaining or bolting a route.
Step five: Replace the anchors annually as opposed to every five to 10 years (maybe 20).
Step four: Don't be a lazy fat-ass.

Don't they teach you that five comes after four up there in yankee land?

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:45 pm

**Wes is part Yankee**

Post by **Smedley** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:48 pm

I guess 'Step Four' could follow any of the OBVIOUS no-no's when it comes to good route etiquette. I'm sure you get my point fat-boy.

Post by **Wes** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:51 pm

Yea, because rapping is oh-so-much-less wear on the anchors. Or not? Fuck if I care. I mostly lower. Sometimes I rappel. I replace some anchors, don't replace others. Big deal.