RRC Archives

I went out to Purgatory over Memorial Day weekend and saw that just before the "entrance" there's some cracks to the left. Does anyone know what the short ramp crack is with bolted anchors about 40ft. up?

The 1st one is a wide left leaning crack called "Butterfly Gangbang" around 5.8+, to the left is a crack/wide ramp with anchors and is called "Looking Thru the Devils Window" around 5.6(great beg trad lead if you have wide gear) , next line to the left is an overhanging thin crack called "Mist of Funk" around 5.10 2 pitches with the second being pretty short(both are great fun). You could combine the pitches if you dont mind bad rope drag. "BG and MOF" both top out and rap from the sling to the left of MOF". More trad lines have been going up around the Purgatory area, if you need more info send me a pm. They are all pretty good routes, I would give them 2 stars or so. Hope this helps. I am terrible at grades, if you get on them let Jason or I know what you think.

Have you talked to Ray to get them in the guuide book yet? And did you and jason do Fallen angel when you guys were there?

"Butterfly Gangbang"
Run J-Rock, RUUUUN!!!

diggum wrote:"Butterfly Gangbang"
Run J-Rock, RUUUUN!!!

I don't think I'll be climbing that route anytime soon! It sounds REALLY scary! Probably R or X rated for me (especially with all of those terrifying little creatures)!

If I were climbing that one I probably would have rated it 5.13XXX because of all the butterflies!

Yeah we have given the route info to Ray and Dr. Bob. Ray's got so much on his plate right now and I really dont mind if they get put up or not so no worries on my end at all. We didnt get to get on Fallen, it looked amazing ! Jason may have done it before we went out there. I still need to play on it for sure. The rest of the lines out there look awesome ! Good job on developing out there.

J-Rock,
No worries about deadly butterflies on this climb, just a little wide and at a weird angle. The route was named after a funny river rental incident we were lucky enough to see a couple days before. Well and the route made me feel like I was molested by many butterflies and they liked it rough Not a classic but worth getting on if you have your rack out that way, bring wide stuff.

I haven't gotten on Fallen Angel yet, but it is high on my list. There's a project out there Matt and I are psyched on that's 5.11+ and the gear is a bit spicey. Everytime I walk past Fallen though I drool.