crack at Purgatory?
crack at Purgatory?
I went out to Purgatory over Memorial Day weekend and saw that just before the "entrance" there's some cracks to the left. Does anyone know what the short ramp crack is with bolted anchors about 40ft. up?
The 1st one is a wide left leaning crack called "Butterfly Gangbang" around 5.8+, to the left is a crack/wide ramp with anchors and is called "Looking Thru the Devils Window" around 5.6(great beg trad lead if you have wide gear) , next line to the left is an overhanging thin crack called "Mist of Funk" around 5.10 2 pitches with the second being pretty short(both are great fun). You could combine the pitches if you dont mind bad rope drag. "BG and MOF" both top out and rap from the sling to the left of MOF". More trad lines have been going up around the Purgatory area, if you need more info send me a pm. They are all pretty good routes, I would give them 2 stars or so. Hope this helps. I am terrible at grades, if you get on them let Jason or I know what you think.
I don't think I'll be climbing that route anytime soon! It sounds REALLY scary! Probably R or X rated for me (especially with all of those terrifying little creatures)! 
If I were climbing that one I probably would have rated it 5.13XXX because of all the butterflies!
If I were climbing that one I probably would have rated it 5.13XXX because of all the butterflies!
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
Yeah we have given the route info to Ray and Dr. Bob. Ray's got so much on his plate right now and I really dont mind if they get put up or not so no worries on my end at all. We didnt get to get on Fallen, it looked amazing ! Jason may have done it before we went out there. I still need to play on it for sure. The rest of the lines out there look awesome ! Good job on developing out there.
J-Rock,
No worries about deadly butterflies on this climb, just a little wide and at a weird angle. The route was named after a funny river rental incident we were lucky enough to see a couple days before. Well and the route made me feel like I was molested by many butterflies and they liked it rough
Not a classic but worth getting on if you have your rack out that way, bring wide stuff.
J-Rock,
No worries about deadly butterflies on this climb, just a little wide and at a weird angle. The route was named after a funny river rental incident we were lucky enough to see a couple days before. Well and the route made me feel like I was molested by many butterflies and they liked it rough
Not a classic but worth getting on if you have your rack out that way, bring wide stuff.http://www.redriveroutdoors.com
If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress
If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress