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Prime Directive

Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 6:47 pm
by bcrock
Has anyone gotten hurt falling on Prine Directive?

I toproped PD in Oct 2003 (my first trip to the red). I got it clean. I know that TRing a climb like PD clean means nothing. I went back in the spring of 2004 hoping to lead it. PD was dry, but, all the warmup possibilities were wet. I wan't about to get on PD without being properly warmed up.

As I sat staring up at PD I couldn't help but imagine some bad ass falls, especially after you move left highter up.

Most of my climbing has been in southern California. I really like the steep climbing at the Red, however, when I first tasted Prime Directive I was in love.

Oh well, any input would be appreciated.

Bernie

Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 6:59 pm
by Andrew
I have taken a few falls on it. They are scary but I was alright. Just stay aware when you are falling. You can watch a video of someone taking a fall on it, on the trailer of Spencers video. Anyone know who that was falling on PD.

Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 7:13 pm
by Caspian
I took a pretty good fall climbing above the lip on the right....I thought it would be a wierd fall, but i never even touched the rock.

Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 7:28 pm
by anticlmber
the fall is fine, the one over the roof is the one most worry about, its cool. remember though...if your belayer sucks ass you might eat it but thats on anything. the climber is dave from philly.

Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 7:35 pm
by Stewy911
that thing looks sweet never been on it! but im sure the fall depends on your belayer as it always does.

Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 8:20 pm
by captain static
Make sure to have a long draw for the roof clip.

Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 9:41 pm
by J-Rock
I hurt my ego falling past the roof on Prime Directive. That's a stout 11b, but really rad.

Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 2:52 am
by Guest
OMG I love Prime Directive!! I've only top roped it, but I WILL send that route one day. So effin sweet.

Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 4:56 am
by Horatio Felacio
you just said, "effin sweet". you're an effin doofus.

that's the best .11 in the gorge....maybe.

Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 5:47 am
by pawilkes
im happy this thread came along, i was talking about PD the other day with this guy and i couldn't remember the name of the route. i'd love to get back on that thing this summer and send it. ubber scary though.