Rappelling or lowering off?
Rappelling or lowering off?
After lots of discussion of the pros and cons of rappelling versus lowering off after cleaning an anchor, I'm curious. What is your preference?
Life is too important to be taken seriously. - Oscar Wilde
I really like rappeling, but I find it easier just to lower off. That way, I can quickly get on another route.
I can see where rappeling takes weight off the anchors, but is it such a significant difference? I didn't finish reading all the thread.

I can see where rappeling takes weight off the anchors, but is it such a significant difference? I didn't finish reading all the thread.
Last edited by Meadows on Wed Jan 19, 2005 9:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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To me it often depends on who I am climbing with. Having decked from 35 feet a couple of years back I am somewhat apprehensive if the belayer is not a long time partner. This past fall I was climbing in a group with an Israeli couple. Having completed a climb at left flank I opted to rap because I found it difficult to communicate clearly with the very nice Israeli woman and to be honest just could not get comfortable. We had all spent a couple of days climbing together and she was upset that I did not trust her skill as a belayer. Felt bad for upsetting her. In the end I just did not want to take the chance. Also it gives the belayer a chance to relax and really is not much more time consuming. Each to his own.
"If you smile at me I will understand
Because that is something everybody, everywhere does in the same language"
Crosby,Stills and Nash - Wooden Ships
Because that is something everybody, everywhere does in the same language"
Crosby,Stills and Nash - Wooden Ships
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I prefer to rap. My only gripe with it is trying to clean a overhung climb. I can get most climbs however more than 15degrees and I ant getin my draws back. Quite honistly if the climb is steep Ill lower, but it makes me feal dirty, I can remember what the old anchors on fuzzy were like, scarry as hell to lower on. ( give me tips for raping of a steep climb and giting your draws back) 

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Ditto.. got dropped a long time ago. If it's not someone I know well, then I rap.quicksilver wrote:To me it often depends on who I am climbing with. Having decked from 35 feet a couple of years back I am somewhat apprehensive if the belayer is not a long time partner. This past fall I was climbing in a group with an Israeli couple. Having completed a climb at left flank I opted to rap because I found it difficult to communicate clearly with the very nice Israeli woman and to be honest just could not get comfortable. We had all spent a couple of days climbing together and she was upset that I did not trust her skill as a belayer. Felt bad for upsetting her. In the end I just did not want to take the chance. Also it gives the belayer a chance to relax and really is not much more time consuming. Each to his own.
I've had just about enough of this shit.
FOR ME IT DEPENDS ON HOW STEEP THE CLIMB IS.
DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA HOW HARD IT IS TO CLEAN A STEEP ASS ROUTE ON RAP!! TRY CLEAING TWINKIE, OR SCAR TISSUE AND DANGROUS.

DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA HOW HARD IT IS TO CLEAN A STEEP ASS ROUTE ON RAP!! TRY CLEAING TWINKIE, OR SCAR TISSUE AND DANGROUS.
BUT I ONLY LET PEOPLE BELAY ME WHO I KNOW, AND IF YOU HAVE SOME RANDOM PERSON BELAY YOU, YOU PROBABLY SHOULD BE DROPPED!To me it often depends on who I am climbing with. Having decked from 35 feet a couple of years back I am somewhat apprehensive if the belayer is not a long time partner. This past fall I was climbing in a group with an Israeli couple. Having completed a climb at left flank I opted to rap because I found it difficult to communicate clearly with the very nice Israeli woman and to be honest just could not get comfortable. We had all spent a couple of days climbing together and she was upset that I did not trust her skill as a belayer. Felt bad for upsetting her. In the end I just did not want to take the chance. Also it gives the belayer a chance to relax and really is not much more time consuming. Each to his own.

"climb, fall, send, go home"
In my opinion..rapping is not as safe and that should be the bottom line. Now before everyone freaks out, let me explain.
actually the lurkist explains why in the other thread, I'll quote him
"....Adding in the steps while hanging at the anchor of clipping in, untying, threading the rope and then hooking up the rappel device and rapping down invites error. As we all know, there is not room for error here.
Strictly from a probability stand point adding in all of these steps and done over and over many times, eventually someone will make an error. Probably someone less experience. Tired, having difficulty with the knot, probably not clipping in right or hooking up the rappel device wrong. Anyway, the mistake will occur, someone decks and is really hurt if not dead.
It is the old adage of a chain is as strong....
Remove as many steps from the process to avoid one an error being made at one of those steps...."
actually the lurkist explains why in the other thread, I'll quote him
"....Adding in the steps while hanging at the anchor of clipping in, untying, threading the rope and then hooking up the rappel device and rapping down invites error. As we all know, there is not room for error here.
Strictly from a probability stand point adding in all of these steps and done over and over many times, eventually someone will make an error. Probably someone less experience. Tired, having difficulty with the knot, probably not clipping in right or hooking up the rappel device wrong. Anyway, the mistake will occur, someone decks and is really hurt if not dead.
It is the old adage of a chain is as strong....
Remove as many steps from the process to avoid one an error being made at one of those steps...."
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist