I finally redpointed Syncronicity this weekend. I think it took me six goes, three of those times which I thought for sure it was going down. In the end it didn't go down quick at all but what I got was a valuable lesson that a fast redpoint could never teach.
The first time I lead it, I placed a piece every two feet and got spooked up high so I clipped a bolt on Jersey Connection. Gradually I learned to place less gear and took huge falls on nuts and aliens over and over and over again. The more I fell on it, the more I loved the experience because I learned so much. On my redpoint attempt, I even forgot to put a piece up high in the spooky section and obliviously ran it to the anchors.
I'm so glad I didn't get this route right off because I learned so much in the process. When it went, everything just flowed seamlessly.
I think this route is by far my favorite redpoint because of all I learned from it in the process. What's yours?
Those We Learn From
Those We Learn From
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.
This is an awesome thread, Michelle.
From Windy Corner and Brontosaurus, I learned to trust and use thin handjams (the thumbs-down kind where you can only fit the fleshy part of the base of your thumb in the crack). From the Inhibitor, I learned what parts of my body to flex and when, so that I didn't come down from it feeling like every part of me was exhausted and screaming; and I learned how to chicken wing and heel-toe cam. From Receiver, I learned how to anticipate a crux and plan for it. From King Me, I learned how to take my time and shake out on mediocre holds to avoid a huge pump.
And then there are the works in progress...
From Jack the Ripper, I'm learning how to be patient and move inch by inch while stemming, so that I don't get ahead of myself and come peeling off. From (my one time on) Wide Pride, I learned that Leavittation is the coolest thing ever. Or close.
From Windy Corner and Brontosaurus, I learned to trust and use thin handjams (the thumbs-down kind where you can only fit the fleshy part of the base of your thumb in the crack). From the Inhibitor, I learned what parts of my body to flex and when, so that I didn't come down from it feeling like every part of me was exhausted and screaming; and I learned how to chicken wing and heel-toe cam. From Receiver, I learned how to anticipate a crux and plan for it. From King Me, I learned how to take my time and shake out on mediocre holds to avoid a huge pump.
And then there are the works in progress...
From Jack the Ripper, I'm learning how to be patient and move inch by inch while stemming, so that I don't get ahead of myself and come peeling off. From (my one time on) Wide Pride, I learned that Leavittation is the coolest thing ever. Or close.
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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captain static
- Posts: 2438
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
I learned a lot from redpointing Recoil @ Torrent. I had worked the route a couple of other times before the day that I redpointed it. On the day of the redpoint, I made one attempt after warming up and then just worked the crux sequence and clipping the anchors. I was the most uneasy about having enough juice to hang on and clip the anchors. After this I went on to belay my partner on their project, Bare Metal, and gave that a TR burn. By then I was feeling pretty spent so I went back over to the 5.11 wall and took a nap. When I woke up I was just standing there looking at the route and going through it mentally when someone I knew but that I hadn't climbed with asked me if I needed a belay. Feeling refreshed after the nap, I decided to give it one more try. Then it just all came together and when I reached the anchors I had enough juice left to make the clip. This experience reinforced to me what Horst says about expectations. When my friend came up and offered to belay I didn't have a big expectation on redpointing because it was kind of spur of the moment. Also, because my partner and I are pretty competitive among ourselves, having someone else belay took away that competitive pressure.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
From Shanghia I am being school in a classic Red River lesson on high crux moves. And now I need to learn patients, I striped my draws from it in frustration on Sunday vowing never to return to it. Oh and I learned that if I wear a shirt at the solor collector even when it is sunny and hot the evil ladies bug from hell will have a little bit more trouble biting the shit out of me! 
It really is cool when a routes teaches you so much! I learned how to shake out and rest on good holds from working Tissue Tiger.
It really is cool when a routes teaches you so much! I learned how to shake out and rest on good holds from working Tissue Tiger.
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
From Ethics Police, I learned that warming up is not just a myth created by those who cannot send on their first go.
From What's Left of the Beeneling, I learned that you can jam with more than your hands and feet. And, I learned that those really big cams aren't always just 'for show,' in the stores.
From The Red River Gorge, I learned that the midwest (or, wherever I live) isn't all that bad.
From What's Left of the Beeneling, I learned that you can jam with more than your hands and feet. And, I learned that those really big cams aren't always just 'for show,' in the stores.
From The Red River Gorge, I learned that the midwest (or, wherever I live) isn't all that bad.
"Missiles are absolutely antisocial" --Dr. Bronner
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Horatio Felacio
- Posts: 3338
- Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm
that's insane sounding, but cool if it works.Yasmeen wrote:This is an awesome thread, Michelle.
From Windy Corner and Brontosaurus, I learned to trust and use thin handjams (the thumbs-down kind where you can only fit the fleshy part of the base of your thumb in the crack). ...
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
i second the props for a great thread.
from ethics police: to stay smart, stand on your feet, and to stay calm (ie: keep your heart rate low).
from receiver and wadcutter: hating a route is ok, just because it's rock and in the red doesn't mean it has to be great, and that (specific to receiver) some routes are entirely in your head.
from flying monkeys and lollipop kids: to jump right back on if you're feeling "it"
from all of them: it's not worth it unless you're having fun.
from ethics police: to stay smart, stand on your feet, and to stay calm (ie: keep your heart rate low).
from receiver and wadcutter: hating a route is ok, just because it's rock and in the red doesn't mean it has to be great, and that (specific to receiver) some routes are entirely in your head.
from flying monkeys and lollipop kids: to jump right back on if you're feeling "it"
from all of them: it's not worth it unless you're having fun.
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
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longlegsrule
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2003 7:21 pm
