Easy fun traditional climbing

Post by **512OW** » Thu Sep 02, 2004 2:02 am

I'd like to do some easy traditional climbing. I'll be in Red River Gorge a week from this coming Saturday. Does anybody know any easy crack climbs I can do? Any tips on gear placement would be excellent.

Thanks in advance.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Thu Sep 02, 2004 2:17 am

Beginner's Nightmare needs a second ascent. You're all over it, Kris! Also, my tips on gear placement would be to replace your rack with cams that aren't so old that their lobes retain their position once you've cammed them. I'm kind of picky like that, though.

Post by **andy_lemon** » Thu Sep 02, 2004 4:49 am

A good tip for you Mr. OW, would be to try and place gear with your feet below your hips.

Post by **Jeff** » Thu Sep 02, 2004 7:37 am

Go to the New.
Gumby

Post by **Zspider** » Thu Sep 02, 2004 11:28 am

What is easy for you? If 5.6 fits the bill, go to Fortress Wall. Warm up on American Crack (5.4), a really nice crack in a dihedral. Then wander back down the cliff to Party Time (5.6) and do it. Two pitches, just about straight up. At the other end of the cliff is Bedtime for Bonzo (5.6) A couple mediocre pitches take you to an exposed, overhanging exit move.

Don't get fooled by the 5.2 rating on one of the Calypso climbs. I was trying to find climbs my daughter could get up and would feel good about and she couldn't do it after having little problem on American Crack.

The truth of the matter is that there isn't a lot of quality climbing at the Gorge at 5.4 and under. Seneca Rock is where you wanna go for fantastic, exposed, and exciting routes at 5.4 and under.

Good luck and have fun. Remember to tie in.

ZSpider

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Sep 02, 2004 11:33 am

I am pretty sure that those routes are way too hard for this guy, ZSpider. Know of any 4th class gullies that take good pro?

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu Sep 02, 2004 11:40 am

"Yo! Where's all my traddies at?" 8)

Post by **512OW** » Thu Sep 02, 2004 11:52 am

I'm definitely looking for 4th class where I can practice gear placements. I have 14 stoppers with bent wires, 6 frozen up cams, a set of loud, clangy hexes, and some knotted rope I can slot when in a pinch.

My rope is at least 5 years old and the crazy guys that climbed on it probably took 178 whippers on it the first week....after that they lost count.

Safety is my main concern.

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu Sep 02, 2004 12:01 pm

Hey man, check out the roof crack above "Tradisfaction" and "Kentucky Waterfall" for a real good time.

8)

Post by **Zspider** » Thu Sep 02, 2004 12:27 pm

Sandy wrote:

Know of any 4th class gullies that take good pro?

***********
I was out at the Needles in South Dakota and it was the day after we had done the Durrance route on Devils Tower and after doing a couple Needles routes, we decided to do this long steep gully, probably 4th class. I'm nervous anywhere I can fall and go boom, so we roped up so I could place a piece or two in sketchy areas. I had just about run out a rope length when I ran into two mountain goats waiting to descend. The came real close, I moved up the side of the gully, and they proceeded down.

ZSpider