!!!!!FINGER DOING WIRED THINGS!!!!

Post by **philip171** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 9:37 pm

Last friday I climbed all day, TR father and son about 10 times, and lead then top roped Eurika. When I went to clean Eurikea I went to grab a hold half way up then my hand went crazy. My index finger unconrollably started pulling has hard as it could towerd my rist. It hurt like crazy then my hand started pulling tored the same way. It took about 5 mins of shakeing and gently pulling my finger till it stoped. After that I slowly top roped it useing mostly my right hand. Even that night if I bent my index finger it would be harder then normal to pull back.
What is this? Any way to avoid it? This is the 2nd time to have it happon, last time I was on dream of a bee, it hapens the worst on small pockets or rounded off holds.
Any how,
Thanks for any advice.

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 9:55 pm

I'm having a hard time deciding which smiley/emoticon to pick here.... where's the one that shakes its head from side to side???

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 10:01 pm

Philip, if you heard a pop, could be a pulled tendon... could be also that you climbed all day without warming up first... could it also be that you're spastic?

From your other posts, it seems like you don't get to climb outside as often. Be nice to yourself and ease into it (warm-up first) whether your climbing indoors or out.

Post by **Caspian** » Tue Jun 22, 2004 2:05 am

Sounds kind of like a cramp

Post by **Don McGlone** » Tue Jun 22, 2004 12:41 pm

philip171,
Sounds like some sort of cramp. Be sure to drink plenty of fluids before, during and after your climbing. Drinks like Gatorade that has potassium and other minerals would be helpful. Hope this helps.

Post by **captain static** » Tue Jun 22, 2004 2:34 pm

That would definitely be a hand cramp. I'm not sure what triggers them, perhaps overgripping, but I have had it happen to me a couple of times. My worst experience with a hand cramp was leading Dufty's Popoff at Seneca. The crux of Dufty's is a body length horizontal roof. I was fully horizontal grabbing the jugs at the lip when I got one of these hand cramps. I literally could not open the cramping hand so had no choice but to take the lead fall. My first piece popped but the second one held. I landed upside down about 15 feet above the belay ledge. I had just taken a 30 foot whipper.

Post by **philip171** » Tue Jun 22, 2004 3:01 pm

Ouch, luckly, it hasent happend to me while leading....yet. I think I had wore my self out is why it happend. After leading it I drank nearly entire 30 oz poweraid and half of my water bottle, so if any thing, to much fluid but I was dehyderated while leading it. Any how,
I will try next time to be better hyderated and maybe find some ways of warming up.
Thanks.

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Tue Jun 22, 2004 4:08 pm

Philip, stretching helps out a lot too.