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learning curve
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2004 5:52 pm
by aaron
this route is bad ass!
i got on it yesterday. the long move from the pinch/fingerlock is cool.
the top is hard and weird.
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2004 7:36 pm
by Johnny
5 stars for a 20 ft route? hmmm....
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2004 7:37 pm
by Artsay
That thing should have a boulder rating.
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2004 7:38 pm
by Johnny
Now, if it's an easy 12a, I'd vote to keep it a route rating so I can actually do one. But if it's one of those modern 12a ratings, make it V whatever.
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:15 pm
by aaron
how tall are you?
that affects the rating a lot!
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:18 pm
by Artsay
It's not how tall...
It's how WIDE!
....just joking, Johnny.
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:20 pm
by aaron
maybe wideness would help keep him locked into the little dihedral thingy will making the final moves
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:23 pm
by loren
definitely modern. Aaron's right too that if you are short then you have to go about it way differently than a tall person. Either way, it's pretty tough.
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:25 pm
by aaron
i want to get on it again. it was hard but i can make it to the ledge and i'm working out how to get to the upper holds. jump? or use the weird side pull, crimp around the arete?
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:30 pm
by loren
Don't know man. I got shut down. My buddy Max sent it, but he's six something and was able to reach that tiny crimpy pocket way up and right. I understand that the FA pulled out left and did some sort of dynamic thing pulling with his right on the arête. This seemed impossible for me though. Definitely a bouldery route.