learning curve

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 5:52 pm

this route is bad ass!
i got on it yesterday. the long move from the pinch/fingerlock is cool.
the top is hard and weird.

Post by **Johnny** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 7:36 pm

5 stars for a 20 ft route? hmmm....

Post by **Artsay** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 7:37 pm

That thing should have a boulder rating.

Post by **Johnny** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 7:38 pm

Now, if it's an easy 12a, I'd vote to keep it a route rating so I can actually do one. But if it's one of those modern 12a ratings, make it V whatever.

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:15 pm

how tall are you?
that affects the rating a lot!

Post by **Artsay** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:18 pm

It's not how tall...
It's how WIDE!

....just joking, Johnny.

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:20 pm

maybe wideness would help keep him locked into the little dihedral thingy will making the final moves

Post by **loren** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:23 pm

definitely modern. Aaron's right too that if you are short then you have to go about it way differently than a tall person. Either way, it's pretty tough.

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:25 pm

i want to get on it again. it was hard but i can make it to the ledge and i'm working out how to get to the upper holds. jump? or use the weird side pull, crimp around the arete?

Post by **loren** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:30 pm

Don't know man. I got shut down. My buddy Max sent it, but he's six something and was able to reach that tiny crimpy pocket way up and right. I understand that the FA pulled out left and did some sort of dynamic thing pulling with his right on the arête. This seemed impossible for me though. Definitely a bouldery route.