RRC Archives

Considering some recent threads on belaying, some conversations I've had recently concerning the subject, and my broken ankle, I thought it a good idea to start a thread that will hopefully get some of you experienced people to share some guidelines on belaying. Plus, it will help Sandy with her tech writing project.

Remember, this is NOT the Bitch About Your Belayer thread; rather, it's an opportunity to share what you've learned.

P.S. In my case, my belayer considerably outweighed me and stood far from the wall so he could see me in order to coach me up Bandolier. I fell and slammed into the wall (not the pedastal). Some people watching said that he barely lifted from the ground when I fell. Lighter people need more rope!!

Is it definately broken? Last I heard it was just sprained!

As for belaying, I will never trust a belayer that's not paying 100% attention to me when I'm climbing. There's nothing more I hate than to see my belayer talking to other people or looking elsewhere. Granted it's a little different story in the gym, but this definitely applies outside.

A good belayer should be able to use whatever device the climber wants. If a climber wants me to use a gri-gri, I will. If they prefer an ATC, so be it. It's their life in my hands, whatever makes them feel better I'll do.

Learn to soft catch, and when to not soft catch. Learn when you need to turn and run.

Don't belay Meadows when she's trying to impress a boy, she'll hurt herself.

dhoyne, It's broken for sure (the MRI was on Thursday) and Fuck you! Love you, man!

Weight considerations are very important-not just when a belayer outweighs the climber, but when the climber significantly outweighs the belayer. I've decked multiple times because of that. You'd think I'd learn.

air canada, So is that why you are "lead ass"? Lead as in the metal not as in leader?

You got it. It looks awfully big when its flying at your head.
Being my belayer can be a bit rough sometimes.

don't short rope the climber.

find out whether the climber likes running beta, or for you to shut your trap. not everyone likes "encouragement" on the rock... even saying "you can do it" puts some people under stress...know this beforehand...usually, "I'm with you" is a big help.

air canada wrote:You got it. It looks awfully big when its flying at your head.
Being my belayer can be a bit rough sometimes.

I've heard stories ...

Belayers should learn to belay without looking. In multi-pitch situations you are always belaying without being able to see your climber...oh and learning to break with either hand is helpful as well.

I would rather my belayer stand close to the wall in a direct line up to the first bolt or piece, mostly that is to protect the belayer from being dragged across the ground and smashed into the wall in a fall. I know a girl from our gym that was standing too far away from the wall to watch her climber and when he fell she was smashed into the wall and ended up having major reconstruction to her knee! Plus, as in Meadows case you run the risk of short roping your belayer. Lastly it really sucks when you fall at the first or second bolt and rack your nuts or get a nasty rope burn from the rope that is coming out the belay device to the first or second bolt, all because your belayer was standing too far away from the wall.

I know you are looking for tech stuff Meadows but truly belaying is very simple. You just need to follow a few simple rules, all the other stuff is just personal preference.

what concerns me the most is to have a belayer that is more afraid of the climb than I am, that is how people get short roped most often. It's a natural reaction to sit back and suck in rope when your leader falls but that is usually the worst thing you can do.