Remember, this is NOT the Bitch About Your Belayer thread; rather, it's an opportunity to share what you've learned.
Guidelines on Belaying
Guidelines on Belaying
Considering some recent threads on belaying, some conversations I've had recently concerning the subject, and my broken ankle, I thought it a good idea to start a thread that will hopefully get some of you experienced people to share some guidelines on belaying. Plus, it will help Sandy with her tech writing project.
Remember, this is NOT the Bitch About Your Belayer thread; rather, it's an opportunity to share what you've learned.
Remember, this is NOT the Bitch About Your Belayer thread; rather, it's an opportunity to share what you've learned.
P.S. In my case, my belayer considerably outweighed me and stood far from the wall so he could see me in order to coach me up Bandolier. I fell and slammed into the wall (not the pedastal). Some people watching said that he barely lifted from the ground when I fell. Lighter people need more rope!!
Last edited by Meadows on Wed Mar 31, 2004 10:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Is it definately broken? Last I heard it was just sprained!
As for belaying, I will never trust a belayer that's not paying 100% attention to me when I'm climbing. There's nothing more I hate than to see my belayer talking to other people or looking elsewhere. Granted it's a little different story in the gym, but this definitely applies outside.
A good belayer should be able to use whatever device the climber wants. If a climber wants me to use a gri-gri, I will. If they prefer an ATC, so be it. It's their life in my hands, whatever makes them feel better I'll do.
Learn to soft catch, and when to not soft catch. Learn when you need to turn and run.
Don't belay Meadows when she's trying to impress a boy, she'll hurt herself.
As for belaying, I will never trust a belayer that's not paying 100% attention to me when I'm climbing. There's nothing more I hate than to see my belayer talking to other people or looking elsewhere. Granted it's a little different story in the gym, but this definitely applies outside.
A good belayer should be able to use whatever device the climber wants. If a climber wants me to use a gri-gri, I will. If they prefer an ATC, so be it. It's their life in my hands, whatever makes them feel better I'll do.
Learn to soft catch, and when to not soft catch. Learn when you need to turn and run.
Don't belay Meadows when she's trying to impress a boy, she'll hurt herself.
Sarcasm is a tool the weak use to avoid confrontation. People with any balls just outright lie.
[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
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air canada
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- Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2003 5:53 pm
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air canada
- Posts: 326
- Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2003 5:53 pm
don't short rope the climber.
find out whether the climber likes running beta, or for you to shut your trap. not everyone likes "encouragement" on the rock... even saying "you can do it" puts some people under stress...know this beforehand...usually, "I'm with you" is a big help.
find out whether the climber likes running beta, or for you to shut your trap. not everyone likes "encouragement" on the rock... even saying "you can do it" puts some people under stress...know this beforehand...usually, "I'm with you" is a big help.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
Belayers should learn to belay without looking. In multi-pitch situations you are always belaying without being able to see your climber...oh and learning to break with either hand is helpful as well.
I would rather my belayer stand close to the wall in a direct line up to the first bolt or piece, mostly that is to protect the belayer from being dragged across the ground and smashed into the wall in a fall. I know a girl from our gym that was standing too far away from the wall to watch her climber and when he fell she was smashed into the wall and ended up having major reconstruction to her knee! Plus, as in Meadows case you run the risk of short roping your belayer. Lastly it really sucks when you fall at the first or second bolt and rack your nuts
or get a nasty rope burn from the rope that is coming out the belay device to the first or second bolt, all because your belayer was standing too far away from the wall. 
I know you are looking for tech stuff Meadows but truly belaying is very simple. You just need to follow a few simple rules, all the other stuff is just personal preference.
what concerns me the most is to have a belayer that is more afraid of the climb than I am, that is how people get short roped most often. It's a natural reaction to sit back and suck in rope when your leader falls but that is usually the worst thing you can do.
I would rather my belayer stand close to the wall in a direct line up to the first bolt or piece, mostly that is to protect the belayer from being dragged across the ground and smashed into the wall in a fall. I know a girl from our gym that was standing too far away from the wall to watch her climber and when he fell she was smashed into the wall and ended up having major reconstruction to her knee! Plus, as in Meadows case you run the risk of short roping your belayer. Lastly it really sucks when you fall at the first or second bolt and rack your nuts
or get a nasty rope burn from the rope that is coming out the belay device to the first or second bolt, all because your belayer was standing too far away from the wall. I know you are looking for tech stuff Meadows but truly belaying is very simple. You just need to follow a few simple rules, all the other stuff is just personal preference.
what concerns me the most is to have a belayer that is more afraid of the climb than I am, that is how people get short roped most often. It's a natural reaction to sit back and suck in rope when your leader falls but that is usually the worst thing you can do.
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist