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Lowering on anchors.

Posted: Thu May 26, 2016 5:01 pm
by milspecmark
So I read 2 articles today on facebook. One from American Alpine club and one from the RRG Fixed gear initiative. Both are recommending us lower from the anchors now rather than Rappelling. I have been climbing in the Red for about 8 years now and I have always heard it is more ethical to Rap than Lower. I just wanted to get your all thoughts on this issue. Do you Rap or lower?

Re: Lowering on anchors.

Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 4:41 am
by Rotarypwr345704
This topic hasn't been beaten like the proverbial dead horse.

Re: Lowering on anchors.

Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 10:56 am
by Cromper
To say it is more ethical to rappel on a one pitch route is completely stupid when quicklinks are a dollar and easily replaceable.

Re: Lowering on anchors.

Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 12:12 pm
by milspecmark
I dont worry about the cost as much as I worry about people actually keeping up with it.

Re: Lowering on anchors.

Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 4:05 pm
by lena_chita
milspecmark wrote:I don't worry about the cost as much as I worry about people actually keeping up with it.
"People" include you. Do your part to make sure the anchors are good on the routes you climb. Even if just a small minority of people does that, everything is fine, because those chains can take thousands of lowerings before they become dangerous. So ~1 person in a thousand carrying a couple of extra quicklinks in their bag is good. Be that person.

Re: Lowering on anchors.

Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 4:11 pm
by clif
quicklinks or the missing link?

Re: Lowering on anchors.

Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 4:18 pm
by captain static
Don't you just love revisionism ;)

Re: Lowering on anchors.

Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 5:39 pm
by lena_chita
captain static wrote:Don't you just love revisionism ;)
Well, when the revisionism is in the right direction... :lol: The ability to change your mind in the face of solid reasoning/facts is a rather valuable, and rare, thing these day. I'm all for celebrating it.

Re: Lowering on anchors.

Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 9:35 pm
by EricDorsey
Climbing in the Red almost a decade and you really don't know what the general consensus is yet?

This topic has been beat to death several times already but to answer your question I lower 98% of the time. It's easier, faster, and generally safer.

Re: Lowering on anchors.

Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 12:50 am
by climb2core
captain static wrote:Don't you just love revisionism ;)
This is not revisionism. This is evolution based upon best practice to mitigate risk. Less people decking or dying beats out the traditionalists need to preserve a piece of metal.