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My first time to Miller Fork I was expecting some quality climbs, but I was sadly disappointed. Miller Fork is full of three star climbs and the 'classics' are four stars at best. Five star climbs are no where in sight. What's going on? Is there more rock, (not the shit kind)?

Go back to Canada

As someone who has developed around 20 routes in Miller, I have to agree. There are a lot of great climbs, but I have yet to see anything five star. Has anyone even seen a lone 5 star gem, any grade?

Andrew wrote:As someone who has developed around 20 routes in Miller, I have to agree. There are a lot of great climbs, but I have yet to see anything five star. Has anyone even seen a lone 5 star gem, any grade?

I got one way back in the woods , and what the hell are you talking about, Singularity is 5 stars!

did you climb it? And is your way back in the woods actually in Miller?

I agree. I think Miller is going to serve its purpose perfectly (i.e. as an area of good, fun climbing to disperse the growing crowds), but i'm curious, geologically, how it is possible to have such a large area of rock with no pristine lines. Just five miles northeast is the southern region proper, and here it would seem that for every 50 or so climbs there is a gem, yet miller - nothing. Just bad luck? Or does the red river gorge geology yield poorer quality rock just outside of a very limited range? Maybe some of the avid cliff explorers can weigh in.

the implication seems to be that this is not just a questionr of the degree of cleaning?

there's no surefire recipe for success when it comes to finding good stuff in the DBNF, which is precisely why we keep rounding the next corner.

A lot of the climbs I have done in the MFRP are as good as some of the older "classics" that this site and the book lists as 5 star routes. Just not covered in as much chalk and grease yet...

Perhaps there is no Gold Coast (although Cromp's super secret kool kid wall comes close), but how many could there be really? The rock in MFRP is no different than the rock in PMRP or Muir. Some walls are choss that will get better with time, some walls are good. Monastery, Corner Pocket, Cloud 9, Secret Garden, Fruit Wall, Highlands, and Graveyard/Morgue all have very good routes. Hourglass Crack, Cornerstone, and Scalpel are easily "5-star" on the absurdist RRG scale. I also think the 12's at Monastery are as good as the 5.12 Wall at Torrent. You guys are letting cynical cool-guy attitude and lack of traffic confound your inferences.