RRC Archives

So the strong freaks have a thread for 13a, thought us mere mortals should have a chance to spray a well. So what's your favorite sub 12 route and why?

ro shampo of course

Whiteout, Fibrulator Direct, Inhibitor, and Daytripping. Next Day Air is up there too with that killer belay ledge. Cuz they're fun... sub-12 trad is awesome in the Red!

Oompha, Brief History of Climb, Whipstocking, Banshee, Centerfire, No place like Home, Infidel

Dave the Dude. Inhibitor. B3. Daytripping. Crown of Thorns. Yellow Brick Road. 27 years of Climbing. About half of the 11bs.

Oh yeah forgot about B3! Good call... Hidden Treasure is pretty damn good too. I'll throw a few sport lines in there like Crosley, Check Your Grip, Banshee, King Me, Jack in the Pulpit and Super Dario, Amarillo Sunset, Breakfast Burrito and Fire & Brimstone, Sloppy Seconds, ROCS, Infidel, No Place, most of the Bronaugh Wall 11's and the former 5.10s at Pocket Wall, RIP... ok the list just got way too long.

so many good ones. won't mention them all, but i do think that there are two over-looked easier routes that deserve five stars.

pogue ethics and bandolier.

i think pogue ethics is easily better than all the other classic sub-10 routes (27 years, eureka, creature feature, etc.). a few thin plates (and sometimes damp start) shouldn't detract from the incredibly fun, flowing movement the whole way up. not to mention it's about as tall and proud as you'll get for a .9 'round these parts.

and, bandolier...what to say? it's just so damn good. maybe the best 11a i've done (with a shout out to super dario and pinkalicious).

1) Bathtub Mary - SO good
2) Air Ride
3) Whip Stocking
4) Breakfast Burrito
5) Banjolero
6) Boltergeist
7) Both 5.10 slab lines at Chica Bonita

i agree that bathtub mary is fun, but i've never been able to figure out why that one gets so much love while picador sits right next door and is just as good, if not better.

i think the slab on picador is more thoughtful, that the moves getting into the hueco are more fun (mantle!!!), and that the run to the chains is more exciting. whatevs. both cool routes.

1) Bathtub Mary
2) KSB
3) Babinski Sign
4) Banshee
5) To Defy The Laws of Tradition
6) Creep Show
7) Overlord
8) Headstone Surfer
9) Balance Beam
10) Sacriledge