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Bad bolt on resurrection

Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 2:42 am
by SS
FYI, the rock in which the second bolt on resurrection is placed failed. Best to stay off until it can be replaced. I did not have a wrench to remove the permadraw, so I placed some tape on the biner which should bring attention to the issue for anyone looking to get on the route.

The rock failed under the weight of a climber falling from a few feet above the bolt.

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 2:58 am
by Cromper
Boy that route isn't having much luck huh

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 4:02 pm
by JR
pictures?

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 4:51 pm
by Andrew
Did the bolt pull all the way out?

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 5:52 pm
by SS
No, the bolt did not pull out.

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 7:21 pm
by Andrew
Thats a bonus, so the same deal as the last one.

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 10:26 pm
by bentley
I am a bit confused, what does "the rock failed" mean if the bolt didn't pull out?

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 1:15 am
by dustonian
A roughly 2" x 2" x 1/2"-thick mini-dinner plate (saucer?) sheared off from the drilling angle being too far off perpendicular... something to keep in mind when placing glue-ins in soft rock!

Bolt is still bomber but looks pretty ugly. Will be back about to put a new bolt and grind off the old one.

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 1:57 am
by pigsteak
and why replace it if it is bomber...now I am confused. are glue ins really the way to go, or are we getting ahead of ourselves?

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 5:02 am
by THB
I didn't see it for myself, but I was there this past weekend and someone was telling me that the rock around the 2nd bolt was cracked in several places and looked suspect. If that's the case, then the bolt might indeed be bomber (I mean, the bolt might not come out of the rock), but the piece of rock that the bolt is glued into might break away from the wall... That might be the reason why the "bomber" bolt needs to be replaced??