Bad bolt on resurrection

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SS
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Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:54 pm

Bad bolt on resurrection

Post by SS »

FYI, the rock in which the second bolt on resurrection is placed failed. Best to stay off until it can be replaced. I did not have a wrench to remove the permadraw, so I placed some tape on the biner which should bring attention to the issue for anyone looking to get on the route.

The rock failed under the weight of a climber falling from a few feet above the bolt.
Cromper
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Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 3:25 am

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Post by Cromper »

Boy that route isn't having much luck huh
JR
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Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Post by JR »

pictures?
Andrew
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Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Post by Andrew »

Did the bolt pull all the way out?
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SS
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Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:54 pm

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Post by SS »

No, the bolt did not pull out.
Andrew
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Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Post by Andrew »

Thats a bonus, so the same deal as the last one.
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bentley
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Joined: Fri Dec 09, 2005 5:34 pm

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Post by bentley »

I am a bit confused, what does "the rock failed" mean if the bolt didn't pull out?
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dustonian
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:46 pm

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Post by dustonian »

A roughly 2" x 2" x 1/2"-thick mini-dinner plate (saucer?) sheared off from the drilling angle being too far off perpendicular... something to keep in mind when placing glue-ins in soft rock!

Bolt is still bomber but looks pretty ugly. Will be back about to put a new bolt and grind off the old one.
Last edited by dustonian on Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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pigsteak
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Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Post by pigsteak »

and why replace it if it is bomber...now I am confused. are glue ins really the way to go, or are we getting ahead of ourselves?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
THB
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Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 12:26 pm

Re: Bad bolt on resurrection

Post by THB »

I didn't see it for myself, but I was there this past weekend and someone was telling me that the rock around the 2nd bolt was cracked in several places and looked suspect. If that's the case, then the bolt might indeed be bomber (I mean, the bolt might not come out of the rock), but the piece of rock that the bolt is glued into might break away from the wall... That might be the reason why the "bomber" bolt needs to be replaced??
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