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Does anyone know of any fun, STEEP 5.11's (or easy 12's) at The New? I am going there for the first time in a couple of weeks. The only thing I've heard about it is that "it's too technical and not steep enough" from people who climb at the Red.

Narcissus (12a) at Summersville Lake is STEEP.

I am heading there over Labor Day. Can anyone give camping options other than Rogers?

Yea...it's real rock climbing at the New. Steep climbing at the New starts at 13a but there are a couple 12's that are steep. The Fall Line(12b) at Endless is a good one. Camping at Rogers sucks, try Chestnut Creek campground on Lansing Rd. It's $8.00 per person per night but worth it.
If you are looking for free camping try summersville dam.


Have fun

Yowsah at the Hole at Kaymor is fun and steep. It's 12a (maybe a/b), has all fixed draws except for the bottom 2 (5.8 climbing). It's a linkup of, as I recall, skull f*ck and blood raid. Narcissus (already mentioned) is also fairly fun and steep. Lost souls (11d) is pretty good and while not wildly steep always feels steep to me.

--Brent

You've got to do Discombobulated (11a) @ Endless. Great route, great moves, and excellent setting/view at the top!
Ditto on Chestnut Creek.

There are two cool steep 11's on the right side of the DC boulder at Summesville. I can't remeber their names though.

Power2U wrote:There are two cool steep 11's on the right side of the DC boulder at Summesville. I can't remeber their names though.

Oh yeah forgot about those...fun but short. They're like boulder problems!

Thanks for the info--now I am more psyched!

What? Rogers is the place. Especially for the atmosphere. It's not Miguel's, but it has the same climbing atmosphere as Miguels. Camping is $5.00 and a shower(7mins of Heaven, buy two tokens and he'll give you one for free) is $1.00. Free Coffee, but I only recommend it if you plan on cleaning your system out. Plus you can walk to Kaymoor(10mins) where you'll find Butchers Branch(Lost Souls 11d/12a, Bicycle Club 12a, Ministry 12b, and Sancho Belize 11b/c all highly recommended). Home to about 16 pretty steep 11b-12c routes(mostly in the 11c/d-12a range). The Hole insanely steep (Yowsah 12a, and a few other good 12's) also a 5 minute hike from Rogers. These all have hanging draws so jumping on Lactic Acid Breath at 12d is fun even if your a 5.10 climber. Another 1 minute walk from the Hole and you come to Worlds Hardest 12a, Magnatude 11c, and Tarbaby 12a/b. 25miles at Summersville Lake holds the Coliseum which has a number routes from 12a-13d, easiest being Reckless Abandon(12b), and Tobacco Road(12b). The climbs at the DC Memorial Boulder(Summersville Lake) are All the Way Baby(12b), Vaseline Vision 12a/b, Delayed Stress Syndrone 11a, and Year of the Psycho Bitch 11b very steep, really short, but super fun. If you haven't noticed I'm a little partial to the New. Check www.drtopo.com for more route info if you do not have a guide book. For technical, and yes sometimes steep climbing the New River Gorge cannot be beat in my opinion.

Yeah Rogers is cool for the scene if you are into that and Roger is a great guy. But man for three more dollars you get Awesome showers, flush toilets, and free drinking water...Plus a FLAT spot to sleep...something Rogers doesn't have.