The New River Gorge

[steep4me]

Does anyone know of any fun, STEEP 5.11's (or easy 12's) at The New? I am going there for the first time in a couple of weeks. The only thing I've heard about it is that "it's too technical and not steep enough" from people who climb at the Red.

[hotkarl]

Narcissus (12a) at Summersville Lake is STEEP.

I am heading there over Labor Day. Can anyone give camping options other than Rogers?

[rhunt]

Yea...it's real rock climbing at the New. Steep climbing at the New starts at 13a but there are a couple 12's that are steep. The Fall Line(12b) at Endless is a good one. Camping at Rogers sucks, try Chestnut Creek campground on Lansing Rd. It's $8.00 per person per night but worth it.
If you are looking for free camping try summersville dam.


Have fun

[drifter]

Yowsah at the Hole at Kaymor is fun and steep. It's 12a (maybe a/b), has all fixed draws except for the bottom 2 (5.8 climbing). It's a linkup of, as I recall, skull f*ck and blood raid. Narcissus (already mentioned) is also fairly fun and steep. Lost souls (11d) is pretty good and while not wildly steep always feels steep to me.

--Brent

[Jeff]

You've got to do Discombobulated (11a) @ Endless. Great route, great moves, and excellent setting/view at the top!
Ditto on Chestnut Creek.

[Power2U]

There are two cool steep 11's on the right side of the DC boulder at Summesville. I can't remeber their names though.

[rhunt]

There are two cool steep 11's on the right side of the DC boulder at Summesville. I can't remeber their names though.

Oh yeah forgot about those...fun but short. They're like boulder problems!

[steep4me]

Thanks for the info--now I am more psyched!

[jarthur]

What? Rogers is the place. Especially for the atmosphere. It's not Miguel's, but it has the same climbing atmosphere as Miguels. Camping is $5.00 and a shower(7mins of Heaven, buy two tokens and he'll give you one for free) is $1.00. Free Coffee, but I only recommend it if you plan on cleaning your system out. Plus you can walk to Kaymoor(10mins) where you'll find Butchers Branch(Lost Souls 11d/12a, Bicycle Club 12a, Ministry 12b, and Sancho Belize 11b/c all highly recommended). Home to about 16 pretty steep 11b-12c routes(mostly in the 11c/d-12a range). The Hole insanely steep (Yowsah 12a, and a few other good 12's) also a 5 minute hike from Rogers. These all have hanging draws so jumping on Lactic Acid Breath at 12d is fun even if your a 5.10 climber. Another 1 minute walk from the Hole and you come to Worlds Hardest 12a, Magnatude 11c, and Tarbaby 12a/b. 25miles at Summersville Lake holds the Coliseum which has a number routes from 12a-13d, easiest being Reckless Abandon(12b), and Tobacco Road(12b). The climbs at the DC Memorial Boulder(Summersville Lake) are All the Way Baby(12b), Vaseline Vision 12a/b, Delayed Stress Syndrone 11a, and Year of the Psycho Bitch 11b very steep, really short, but super fun. If you haven't noticed I'm a little partial to the New. Check www.drtopo.com for more route info if you do not have a guide book. For technical, and yes sometimes steep climbing the New River Gorge cannot be beat in my opinion.

[rhunt]

Yeah Rogers is cool for the scene if you are into that and Roger is a great guy. But man for three more dollars you get Awesome showers, flush toilets, and free drinking water...Plus a FLAT spot to sleep...something Rogers doesn't have.