The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)

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climb2core
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The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)

Post by climb2core »

So, I was just getting comfortable on 12's when climbing stopped for me... last time I touched rock was 8 yrs ago (10 years for the Red) until this May. I am 7 months back at it :) But now to the point... I am setting my wish/tick list for 2010/2011... so I thought why not start with the best 5.12 lines in the Red. Life is short, and time to climb is even more scarce. These are all the best 5.12 lines per the masses (voted 5 stars) in the Gorge:

‎8 Ball The Motherlode Southern Region 5.12d
Atlas Shrugged The Sanctuary Muir Valley 5.12d
Bare Metal Teen Torrent Falls 5.12a
Belly of the Beast Bronaugh Wall Southern Region 5.12c
Cell Block Six Midnight Surf Muir Valley Sport 5.12c
Iniquity Midnight Surf Muir Valley 5.12b
Jesus Wept The Sanctuary Muir Valley 5.12d
Malice The Chocolate Factory Southern Region 5.12c
Orange Juice Funk Rock City 5.12c
Racer X Torrent Falls - Natural Bridge Region 5.12d
Reload The Arsenal Muir Valley 5.12c
Samurai North 40 Southern Region 5.12b
Shanghai The Dark Side Southern Region 5.12d
Soul Ram Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge 5.12b
Stain The Motherlode Southern Region 5.12c
Steelworker Torrent Falls - 5.12c
Swahili Slang The Motherlode Southern Region 5.12c
Team Wilson The Motherlode Southern Region 5.12d
The Gift Long Wall Lower Gorge Region 5.12a
Tissue Tiger Military Wall Gray's Branch Region 5.12b
Triple Sec (a.k.a. 50 Bucks) The Sanctuary 5.12d
Twinkie Phantasia Northern Gorge Region 5.12a
Wild Gift Roadside Crag Natural Bridge Region 5.12c

Gung Ho Military Wall Gray's Branch Region 5.12b (sent)
Hippocrite The Zoo Natural Bridge Region 5.12a (sent)
Ro Shampo Roadside Crag Natural Bridge Region 5.12a (sent)

Anyone got another line they think deserves to be on this list, or one that shouldn't be? BTW, not spraying. Climbing 5.12 these days is about as special as getting a prize with your Happy Meal... Lastly, would like to project a 13. Not chasing grades, but that is a milestone that has been on my bucket list for a long time. So, I need the easiest 13 in the Red ;)

Thanks! Look forward to the responses.
toad857
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Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)

Post by toad857 »

climb2core wrote:So, I need the easiest 13 in the Red ;)
try spank
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Rollo
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Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)

Post by Rollo »

My current list of routes to do is one name long... Looks like you have your work cut out for you already without adding more to the plate.
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climb2core
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Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)

Post by climb2core »

Rollo wrote:My current list of routes to do is one name long... Looks like you have your work cut out for you already without adding more to the plate.
Yeah, I have been the same way... but thought it would be fun to set out a comprehensive list and then try to send it over the next year. I need something to keep me motivated to train hard over the winter ;)

You know, I just realized Mercy is not on that list... I think I will have to add that one too. And then I just got on Mosaic last week end and thought that was really cool, so that one too. That would make 25 at that grade in a year...

So, the list is more for motivation than anything. Plus I love to hear about diamonds in the rough that may not be mega classics... I think I would put Wildfire in that category.

Thanks though.
shear
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Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)

Post by shear »

For a 13, try Table of Colors...short crux, lots of rests, not that bad.
chriss
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Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)

Post by chriss »

toad857 wrote:
climb2core wrote:So, I need the easiest 13 in the Red ;)
try spank
Try Spank, hoofmaker, or farewell to arms.
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Artsay
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Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)

Post by Artsay »

For a 13 try Hoofmaker. It's a hard boulder problem and then 5.12 climbing to the top. Good rests all over. And the beta I worked out for the bottom made it much less agro. PM me is you want some details.
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SCIN
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Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)

Post by SCIN »

Taste the Rainbow for a soft 13.
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One-Fall
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Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)

Post by One-Fall »

Artsay wrote:For a 13 try Hoofmaker. It's a hard boulder problem and then 5.12 climbing to the top. Good rests all over. And the beta I worked out for the bottom made it much less agro. PM me is you want some details.
Consider yourself pm'ed. Id love beta. never been on it, buy ill need all the help i can get. thanks!
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