RRC Archives

climbing is dangerous, period.

1) please keep a hand on the brake end at ALL TIMES, gri-gri, cinch, atc, whatever, hold on to it please.
2) ALWAYS double check each other BEFORE leaving the ground.
3) know what the climber plans on doing once at the anchors, before leaving the ground.
4) please don't teach" how to clean when someone is at the anchor
5) if you see something unsafe, say something.
6) look out for others and maybe they will look out for you, remember, we are all stewards of our sport/area and we owe it to others to pass on the kind, caring, and responsible community vibe that we have.

be safe

I couldn't agree with you more anti.
I'll never forget the time at Roadside when I couldn't get the rope to feed through my gri-gri as my partner was clipping. Much to my suprize, I had loaded it backwards. My partner (a.s.s.u.m.e.d.) I had done things correctly. Of course, I never took my hand off of the brake strand, and when they went direct to the anchors, I quickly fixed my mistake and was able to lowered them to the ground safe and sound.
A ten second double check would have avoided this.
I'll be the first to admit that I am not above making a mistake.
Always double check yourself.

There needs to be a renaissance of climbing safety. Back to the basics-
- always check each other- a few seconds of climber and belayer tuning out everything else at the crag to look at each other, check knot, harnesses, rope, belay.
- this time allows the belayer to focus on the task at hand
- for the belayer to tune out other extraneous distractions and be focused on the climber
- perhaps for the belayer to not talk while belaying is not too high a standard

simple stuff, but has to be done every single time.

I wish Terry were here.

I like this thread. Certainly no beer, pot or heroin while on belay or climbing either. Just save your vices for later. If you want to do drugs they can wait.

the drugs keep me sane art and honestly.....i'm losing my mind.


and climbing is my vice

anticlmber wrote:the drugs keep me sane art and honestly.....i'm losing my mind.


and climbing is my vice

Amen!!!

the lurkist wrote:I wish Terry were here.

me too. That nose crinkling smile would be cool to see about now.

7. Belayer should wear gloves.

The leader can can check that the belayer has a gri gri
loaded right by a quick tug on the rope. It will have tension
if loaded in proper manner. Same as a fall.

robert birchell wrote:7. Belayer should wear gloves.

Not crazy about seeing belayers wearing gloves. If your technique is good, you have no danger of ropeburn. Having protection against ropeburn lets belayers get sloppy.

I love innovation, but I think belaying has become more complicated with all the new belay devices on the market. When first started climbing I used a old school eight. Then I got an ATC, it was just awesome. Then I got a JAWS ATC and that was even better. I also got an ATC guide, which I then lost in the snow, but loved the guide feature. I now usually use a Gri-Gri, which I feel very comfortable with. The other day I used a cinch and hated it. I am not trying to debate this or any other device but over the years my brain and hands learned how to belay a certain way, and this device didn't work for me.

I think we would all be safer if we only used one device (and used it well).