gentle reminder

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anticlmber
Posts: 3393
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 12:34 am

gentle reminder

Post by anticlmber »

climbing is dangerous, period.

1) please keep a hand on the brake end at ALL TIMES, gri-gri, cinch, atc, whatever, hold on to it please.
2) ALWAYS double check each other BEFORE leaving the ground.
3) know what the climber plans on doing once at the anchors, before leaving the ground.
4) please don't teach" how to clean when someone is at the anchor
5) if you see something unsafe, say something.
6) look out for others and maybe they will look out for you, remember, we are all stewards of our sport/area and we owe it to others to pass on the kind, caring, and responsible community vibe that we have.

be safe
Like me on facebook but hate me in real life
Eric Cox

Post by Eric Cox »

I couldn't agree with you more anti.
I'll never forget the time at Roadside when I couldn't get the rope to feed through my gri-gri as my partner was clipping. Much to my suprize, I had loaded it backwards. My partner (a.s.s.u.m.e.d.) I had done things correctly. Of course, I never took my hand off of the brake strand, and when they went direct to the anchors, I quickly fixed my mistake and was able to lowered them to the ground safe and sound.
A ten second double check would have avoided this.
I'll be the first to admit that I am not above making a mistake.
Always double check yourself.
the lurkist
Posts: 2240
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm

Post by the lurkist »

There needs to be a renaissance of climbing safety. Back to the basics-
- always check each other- a few seconds of climber and belayer tuning out everything else at the crag to look at each other, check knot, harnesses, rope, belay.
- this time allows the belayer to focus on the task at hand
- for the belayer to tune out other extraneous distractions and be focused on the climber
- perhaps for the belayer to not talk while belaying is not too high a standard

simple stuff, but has to be done every single time.

I wish Terry were here.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
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caribe
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Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 1:37 am

Post by caribe »

I like this thread. Certainly no beer, pot or heroin while on belay or climbing either. Just save your vices for later. If you want to do drugs they can wait.
anticlmber
Posts: 3393
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 12:34 am

Post by anticlmber »

the drugs keep me sane art and honestly.....i'm losing my mind.


and climbing is my vice
Like me on facebook but hate me in real life
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gravitycoach
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Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 12:41 am

Post by gravitycoach »

anticlmber wrote:the drugs keep me sane art and honestly.....i'm losing my mind.


and climbing is my vice
Amen!!!
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Jeff
Posts: 2859
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 6:40 pm

Post by Jeff »

the lurkist wrote:I wish Terry were here.
me too. That nose crinkling smile would be cool to see about now.
robert birchell
Posts: 120
Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2004 3:13 am

belay

Post by robert birchell »

7. Belayer should wear gloves.

The leader can can check that the belayer has a gri gri
loaded right by a quick tug on the rope. It will have tension
if loaded in proper manner. Same as a fall.
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kato
Posts: 879
Joined: Fri Oct 11, 2002 12:54 pm

Re: belay

Post by kato »

robert birchell wrote:7. Belayer should wear gloves.
Not crazy about seeing belayers wearing gloves. If your technique is good, you have no danger of ropeburn. Having protection against ropeburn lets belayers get sloppy.
No chalkbag since 1995.
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michaelarmand
Posts: 527
Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 1:08 pm

Post by michaelarmand »

I love innovation, but I think belaying has become more complicated with all the new belay devices on the market. When first started climbing I used a old school eight. Then I got an ATC, it was just awesome. Then I got a JAWS ATC and that was even better. I also got an ATC guide, which I then lost in the snow, but loved the guide feature. I now usually use a Gri-Gri, which I feel very comfortable with. The other day I used a cinch and hated it. I am not trying to debate this or any other device but over the years my brain and hands learned how to belay a certain way, and this device didn't work for me.

I think we would all be safer if we only used one device (and used it well).
I've been a gumby longer than you've been climbing.
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