Page 1 of 6

"Seam" route at Chocolate Factory

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 4:28 pm
by Sandman
Wondering if anyone knows anything about the angling seam route to the left of "Through The Looking Glass" Starts as about 25 feet of choss, to a 30ft left angling thin seam to a face with one bolt and chain anchors. I feel it needs it needs to be listed in the online guide somehow to alert people that this is a dangerous route possibly. So no one makes the mistake thinking its something else and attempts to lead it w/o knowing. I tried it 3 days ago... and fell about 7-8 feet into the seam after only finding one marginal micro-cam placement, which blew, resulting in a very hard slam into the slab ramp below which busted my ankle a little. But this fall could have been MUCH worse. Any info will be helpful... for me... and others.

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 4:49 pm
by SCIN
That's the 5.7 that what's his face's little girl put up.

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 4:57 pm
by Jeff
Old man what's his faces' daughter is bad ass! Juanita Whatshisface.
Sandman, there was a looong thread about it awhile back.
Search for bolting a crack or something similar. Or just browse old posts and look for the ones with alot of pages.

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 5:18 pm
by Sandman
Searched around the forums and cant find this heated discussion.... if someone could steer me in the right direction that would be great.

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 5:26 pm
by bcombs
I think this may be the thread in question:

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... sc&start=0

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:17 pm
by pigsteak
zach, the original equippers said they would fix it.....my vote is to either strip it or make it a full on sport route....what's your thoughts? I have no problems just bolting it.

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:58 pm
by ynp1
they thought that it might go as a mixed climb, but i think the idea was to go back and bolt the whole route, PM MADMIKE and ask him directly.

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:08 pm
by pigsteak
I was there the day the lone bolt was installed, and I beleive they said it was not a good bolt. like ynp said...

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:10 pm
by dustonian
The gear's really shite on it, huh? It would be kind of nice to have another trad line at CF if the gear is reasonable, but... well, I'm sure this dead horse has already been beaten to death long ago.

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:14 pm
by flashmaster
Well Zac, I think this answers the question go back and send bro!!! Bones heal!!!