Page 1 of 2
Immaculate Deception
Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:11 pm
by marathonmedic
Didn't this used to be mid 11? I don't have my old copy of Ray's bible handy.
Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 1:36 am
by heavyc
as I recall it has always been listed as a 12a although it probably is really 11d, I would think it compares similarly to papa love jugs in difficulty
Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 5:55 am
by sklag
I dunno, that start looks pretty hard...
Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:33 am
by Andrew
11c at the most. The start is V2-V3 no matter how tall you are.
Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 2:17 pm
by lena_chita
The start felt really hard for me (I'm 5ft tall). It felt like a full-value 5.12 move. However, it is just off the ground, and the rest of the route is much easier, and there are couple no-hands rests... so yeah, it feels slightly ridiculous to call it a 5.12. But I haven't sent it yet, so I should just shut up, I guess.
Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 2:49 pm
by steep4me
Which route are you talking about?
Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:26 pm
by lena_chita
The name of the route is the title of the thread.
Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 7:10 pm
by Jay
FWIW, It's 11d in both the 1st and 2nd editions of Ray's guidebook, and in the 2nd edition of Johnny's book, although for some reason it isn't listed in the Bronough book's index...
Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 8:21 pm
by rhunt
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1158
It's 12a on the online guide and put up in 04' way after the 1998 2nd edition of Johnny's book.
Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 8:34 pm
by Jay
My bad. I somehow confused it w/ the Infidel.
I'll shut up now.