Immaculate Deception

Post by **marathonmedic** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:11 pm

Didn't this used to be mid 11? I don't have my old copy of Ray's bible handy.

Post by **heavyc** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 1:36 am

as I recall it has always been listed as a 12a although it probably is really 11d, I would think it compares similarly to papa love jugs in difficulty

Post by **sklag** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 5:55 am

I dunno, that start looks pretty hard...

Post by **Andrew** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:33 am

11c at the most. The start is V2-V3 no matter how tall you are.

Post by **lena_chita** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 2:17 pm

The start felt really hard for me (I'm 5ft tall). It felt like a full-value 5.12 move. However, it is just off the ground, and the rest of the route is much easier, and there are couple no-hands rests... so yeah, it feels slightly ridiculous to call it a 5.12. But I haven't sent it yet, so I should just shut up, I guess.

Post by **steep4me** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 2:49 pm

Which route are you talking about?

Post by **lena_chita** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:26 pm

The name of the route is the title of the thread.

Post by **Jay** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 7:10 pm

FWIW, It's 11d in both the 1st and 2nd editions of Ray's guidebook, and in the 2nd edition of Johnny's book, although for some reason it isn't listed in the Bronough book's index...

Post by **rhunt** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 8:21 pm

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1158

It's 12a on the online guide and put up in 04' way after the 1998 2nd edition of Johnny's book.

Post by **Jay** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 8:34 pm

My bad. I somehow confused it w/ the Infidel.

I'll shut up now.