Page 1 of 3

Trivia/Question for Spurt Climbers and Pink-pointers

Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 5:40 pm
by camhead
Ok, hi everybody. I'm new here and not many of you know me. But now that I've got your attention, a question came up this past weekend that I was wondering about:

We all know that pre-hung/permanent draws are awesome. If you don't think they are, then do not read on. The debate about "pink-point" and "redpoint" is more gangbanged than Roo Shampoo on a weekend, so let's not go there.

BUT, it is also without a doubt harder and more badass to have sent a hard route while putting up your own draws. If Sharma had done Realization in this style, you can bet your sweet ass that the magazines would have screamed about it.

So, what is the hardest route that you know of that has been sent without pre-hung draws? It can be hardest that you have done personally, hardest that you've heard of, at the Red or not, whatever. Any 5.14s?

that is awl. I seriously want to know. thank-you for your time.

Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 5:56 pm
by gripster
Beth Rodden did a 14c finger crack in Yosemite placing all of her own gear...

Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 6:01 pm
by bcombs
Yeah, but one of them was velcro'd. That doesn't count. :roll:

Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 6:06 pm
by camhead
gripster wrote:Beth Rodden did a 14c finger crack in Yosemite placing all of her own gear...
invalid.

this is not the trad-gullying forum, and we all know that Rodden's finger size melted that crack down to 5.10.

Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 6:18 pm
by johnwesely
Rhapsody is about a 14c.

Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 6:21 pm
by Wes
The fly?

Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 10:54 pm
by anticlmber
Wes wrote:The fly?
its two bolts wes and one if not both are stickclipped.

face up to that crack

Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 10:55 pm
by toad857
i did international route of pancakes once and put the draws up... i had to grab one of them, though.

Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 12:54 am
by 512OW
Sharma has onsighted 14a hanging the draws.

That crack was 14c for Beth... impossible for her ex husband.

Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 1:01 pm
by rhunt
wait ex husband? that's sad.