Trivia/Question for Spurt Climbers and Pink-pointers

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
camhead
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Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2006 5:14 pm

Trivia/Question for Spurt Climbers and Pink-pointers

Post by camhead »

Ok, hi everybody. I'm new here and not many of you know me. But now that I've got your attention, a question came up this past weekend that I was wondering about:

We all know that pre-hung/permanent draws are awesome. If you don't think they are, then do not read on. The debate about "pink-point" and "redpoint" is more gangbanged than Roo Shampoo on a weekend, so let's not go there.

BUT, it is also without a doubt harder and more badass to have sent a hard route while putting up your own draws. If Sharma had done Realization in this style, you can bet your sweet ass that the magazines would have screamed about it.

So, what is the hardest route that you know of that has been sent without pre-hung draws? It can be hardest that you have done personally, hardest that you've heard of, at the Red or not, whatever. Any 5.14s?

that is awl. I seriously want to know. thank-you for your time.
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gripster
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Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:43 am

Post by gripster »

Beth Rodden did a 14c finger crack in Yosemite placing all of her own gear...
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bcombs
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Post by bcombs »

Yeah, but one of them was velcro'd. That doesn't count. :roll:
camhead
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Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2006 5:14 pm

Post by camhead »

gripster wrote:Beth Rodden did a 14c finger crack in Yosemite placing all of her own gear...
invalid.

this is not the trad-gullying forum, and we all know that Rodden's finger size melted that crack down to 5.10.
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johnwesely
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Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:44 pm

Post by johnwesely »

Rhapsody is about a 14c.
Wes
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Post by Wes »

The fly?
"There is no secret ingredient"

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anticlmber
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Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 12:34 am

Post by anticlmber »

Wes wrote:The fly?
its two bolts wes and one if not both are stickclipped.

face up to that crack
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toad857
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Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2007 4:31 pm

Post by toad857 »

i did international route of pancakes once and put the draws up... i had to grab one of them, though.
512OW
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

Sharma has onsighted 14a hanging the draws.

That crack was 14c for Beth... impossible for her ex husband.
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rhunt
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Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 12:02 pm

Post by rhunt »

wait ex husband? that's sad.
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