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Easy Fingers
Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 4:57 am
by Jack
We're looking for some easy finger cracks to learn the technique. We'll be trying Calypso II (5.6) pretty soon, had some fun on the very short fingers section of Vision (5.7), and plan to do some laps on Father and Son (5.7). We've been on Mama Told Me Not to Come (5.7), and plan on going back to Dip wall on our search for Green Eggs (5.7).
There is a pretty heavily chalked fingers / thin hands at Fortress, past Snake and before Bedtime for Bonzo. What is the name / rating? I really hope it's not 5.4 because I couldn't get on it.
Basically we're looking for a fingercrack that's easy enough where we won't be worrying about falling on a finger lock, but that is similar enough to the harder grades that we'll still learn something by doing it.
Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 11:53 am
by SCIN
Laceration 5.4+ at Mariba Fork.
Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 12:40 pm
by TexasK
Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 1:28 pm
by Hefe
While you are At Global Village, you should have tried Casual Viewing (5.7). better than Vision or Father and Son. You'll like it. I would also suggest 5 finger discount at Roadside if you want a bit more of a challenge ( 5.8 ) .
Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 11:59 pm
by Bruisebrother
TK, you can name it but it was climbed back in the 80's.
Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 12:07 am
by Jack
Ray: Thanks for the tip on Laceration. Also reminds me I need to actually fill in the details on those place-holder routes.
Hefe: Casual Viewing is definitely in the works. More or less we are working from approach trail back at Global. Right now I get completely spanked on the 5.7's, and Zemkat gets stressed out as she on-sights them, so I think we'll wait a bit on Roadside.
TK, Bruisebrother: What about an approximate grade on that thing? I was going to make it a mini-project, but I've got no idea how hard it is. I mean I don't mind struggling on a short little 5.8, but I don't think I should waste my time on a 5.11, you know? Or if it really is 5.4, then I should figure out what the hell I'm doing wrong. Calypso III and Grinch each felt pretty stout the first time I "climbed" up them.
Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 2:22 am
by JR
Speaking of finger cracks. What is the longest(most sustained) straight in finger crack at the red? A couple come to mind. Fibulator? or Return of Jeff Bean(I don't think this one is very sustained.)
Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 3:28 am
by goodguy
Rebar at Solar Collector is pretty sustained. about 60 ft. of fingers, with a mantle finish.
Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 5:22 am
by SCIN
Most sustained straight in finger crack at the Red?
Welcome to Ol' Kentuck 1st.
Fibrulator 2nd.
Finger Lickin' Good 3rd.
Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 11:31 am
by TexasK
