Easy Fingers

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Jack
Posts: 75
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 10:20 pm

Easy Fingers

Post by Jack »

We're looking for some easy finger cracks to learn the technique. We'll be trying Calypso II (5.6) pretty soon, had some fun on the very short fingers section of Vision (5.7), and plan to do some laps on Father and Son (5.7). We've been on Mama Told Me Not to Come (5.7), and plan on going back to Dip wall on our search for Green Eggs (5.7).

There is a pretty heavily chalked fingers / thin hands at Fortress, past Snake and before Bedtime for Bonzo. What is the name / rating? I really hope it's not 5.4 because I couldn't get on it.

Basically we're looking for a fingercrack that's easy enough where we won't be worrying about falling on a finger lock, but that is similar enough to the harder grades that we'll still learn something by doing it.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

Laceration 5.4+ at Mariba Fork.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
TexasK
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Post by TexasK »

:roll:
Last edited by TexasK on Wed Oct 22, 2003 1:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
" ...... every day I'm more and more dismayed by the sheer numbers of idiots in this country. I dream of running off into what remains of our wild spaces and .......... "
- Sandy
Hefe
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Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 7:29 pm

Post by Hefe »

While you are At Global Village, you should have tried Casual Viewing (5.7). better than Vision or Father and Son. You'll like it. I would also suggest 5 finger discount at Roadside if you want a bit more of a challenge ( 5.8 ) .
Last edited by Hefe on Sun May 18, 2003 10:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bruisebrother
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Post by Bruisebrother »

TK, you can name it but it was climbed back in the 80's.
Jack
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Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 10:20 pm

Post by Jack »

Ray: Thanks for the tip on Laceration. Also reminds me I need to actually fill in the details on those place-holder routes. :P

Hefe: Casual Viewing is definitely in the works. More or less we are working from approach trail back at Global. Right now I get completely spanked on the 5.7's, and Zemkat gets stressed out as she on-sights them, so I think we'll wait a bit on Roadside.

TK, Bruisebrother: What about an approximate grade on that thing? I was going to make it a mini-project, but I've got no idea how hard it is. I mean I don't mind struggling on a short little 5.8, but I don't think I should waste my time on a 5.11, you know? Or if it really is 5.4, then I should figure out what the hell I'm doing wrong. Calypso III and Grinch each felt pretty stout the first time I "climbed" up them.
JR
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Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:18 pm

Post by JR »

Speaking of finger cracks. What is the longest(most sustained) straight in finger crack at the red? A couple come to mind. Fibulator? or Return of Jeff Bean(I don't think this one is very sustained.)
goodguy
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Post by goodguy »

Rebar at Solar Collector is pretty sustained. about 60 ft. of fingers, with a mantle finish.
Oh man, he is messing that up. However, he is missing his left leg so that way would probably be harder for him. SCIN, just before spraying some beta for a climber doing a route the WRONG way.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

Most sustained straight in finger crack at the Red?
Welcome to Ol' Kentuck 1st.
Fibrulator 2nd.
Finger Lickin' Good 3rd.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
TexasK
Posts: 185
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 1:20 pm

Post by TexasK »

:roll:
Last edited by TexasK on Wed Oct 22, 2003 1:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
" ...... every day I'm more and more dismayed by the sheer numbers of idiots in this country. I dream of running off into what remains of our wild spaces and .......... "
- Sandy
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