RRC Archives

jordancolburn wrote: 4. "No fixed gear ever" (would solve the problem, but people will pretty much always leave gear anyways then get mad when it goes missing)

This is pretty much the deal.

I was thinking much along the same lines as the last few posts. I believe that would be a good start.

agreed, except on routes in the process of being bolted, or FA'ed. Developers can do as they please, especially if its a bolted crack.

climb2core wrote:I was thinking much along the same lines as the last few posts. I believe that would be a good start.

that's not even $.02

actually i like the tagging idea. if nothing else, it will help me get my gear back.

Are new climbers leaving their only set of draws on Twinkie (fill in any popular 12a)?

I doubt it. It takes most climbers a while to acquire two sets of draws and to trust that the draws won't be stolen. I would say it takes a few years in the game to climb Twinkie but every one knows that's not true.

So who is really leaving draws? We are. The guys that have posted on here for years. It used to be a nice thing to do(still is?). It was a nice thing for me to leave my old draws on a steep route so the community could enjoy not having to hang their own draws for a while(years?). It was a nice thing not to just waste my old draws by throwing them in the basement. It felt good. I remember thinking how generous it was that Petzl donated so many project draws when the Rock Tour came to town. I no longer feel this way. Things have changed.

What has changed? The amount of climbers climbing these "project" routes. It is creating a bit of a safety issue. So I am personally going to act accordingly.

1: I will not be leaving my old draws anywhere for a length of time.
2: I will be aware of the real possibility that the fixed gear I am climbing on may have sharp edges because of wear. Specifically, the first draw, crux draw and anchor. I would say a draw that is not on the plumb line but I don't climb those nor should they be bolted. lol.
3: I am going to keep my ear to the ground. Meaning, I will be listening to the community to see how we deal with "fixed gear".

There is a new trend of RRG regulars leaving steel project draws on their projects for a few weeks while working them, then taking them down for the next route. This happened this season on Convicted and it worked great. ClimbTech even makes them with a steel biner on both ends for easy hanging.

You guys are high if you think you can enforce any sort of tagging policy on a consistent basis. The best we can hope for is to get as many people as possible checking and removing mank when necessary, especially from first bolts where they are unnecessary and sharpen quickly. I have collected about a dozen this season alone.

https://www.facebook.com/events/4522056 ... ext=create


I already hit the pipe. Your turn Dustin.

Smoke another doood. Maybe you could apply some of that enthusiasm to raising funds for TeamSuck instead...

http://www.teamsuckclimbing.com

We're flat broke, and the tens of 1000s of bolts in the Red aren't getting any newer!

That said, huge props to Blake for representin' us all at the big bolting conference this week out in Vegas... pull home some freshy gear, brah!!!

P.S.: Extra snaps to Brent "whine with his cheese" Dupree, Al "the Aliban" Dilluvio, Aaron "Rockhouse" Brouwer, and that crazy German carpenter Tom Richter for making personal donations this fall. Also to Brad Dallefield who gave me a harness, that was pretty sweet...and Rick & Liz Weber who subsidized the replacement of bolts on Prometheus and full inspection of all Muir steel draws back in September. Maybe Ricky Parks gave something too, and whoever else I forgot, I apologize.

If every visitor to the Red in the fall gave just 5 or 10 bucks our coffers would be overflowing. At this point, we got the hands and expertise, we just ain't gots the equipment.

Please notice "semi-proactive." It is quite simple, those who leave project draws must understand that they may become worn down and even sharp and those you climb on project draws and respect the life must understand that the draws may be sharp. Stop hating on brilliance.