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Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode
Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 2:22 pm
by dustonian
Actually Art, SSGIs are rounded at the eye and do not chew into the permadraw quicklink, unlike standard bolt hangers. The rope end steel biners will indeed get sharp on bolts that are frequently fallen on or out of line with the rest (to that end, do NOT let your rope get all sandy and then lower through fixed gear!!).
This is something EVERY climber using the gear has to monitor and maintain, but if you are motivated to round up such a "task force" by all means get to it. This project is about replacing the bolts at the Lode with SSGIs, so if we could stay on topic that would be awesome.
Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode
Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 2:46 pm
by caribe
dustonian wrote:Actually Art, SSGIs are rounded at the eye and do not chew into the permadraw quicklink, unlike standard bolt hangers.
I accept that fact. This issue was the reason I was less than sanguine about donating. I will throw some duckets at the proj. if the regular hangers that chew the links so badly will be replaced. See I am on topic Todd.
Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode
Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 2:53 pm
by dustonian
It's a moot point, as all donations are going towards bolts, epoxy, bits, nozzles, and anchor materials (chain/ql's) and not to PD's... although we will take down any existing "permadraws" that are unsafe.
As a side note (sorry to go off topic again), ClimbTech really needs to upgrade the quality of the quicklink on their PDs... that soft low-grade steel, $2 quicklink they currently slap on there is a recipe for disaster.
Ok back on topic. Who's Todd?
Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode
Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 3:39 pm
by caribe
dustonian wrote:Who's Todd?
Todd = THB, I should have said Dustin.
Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode
Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 3:48 pm
by THB
NOOO!!!! MY COVER IS BLOWN!!!
LOL...
Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode
Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 7:20 pm
by drifter
I'll donate for the Madness. Maybe I can finally do it with good bolts!
--Brent
Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode
Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 7:24 pm
by dustonian
Awesome, thanks Brent!!!
Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode
Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 11:02 pm
by the lurkist
This from Team Suck. We have committments if not out right $2500. Probably more by now. I knew this would go quick. Thanks for getting this done.
I would propose if this goes down as smoothly as it seems, we export it as needed to other needy cliffs.
Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode
Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 1:01 am
by Rollo
I'm gonna wait till it all gets done.... then i'm gonna pull 'em. It's the right thing to do. I can't climb anything there anyway.
Re: ReBolting the Mother Lode
Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 1:03 am
by Rollo
If i gotta saw-cut a one foot cube of sandstone out to get those pesky wave bolts out i'm doin' it.... it's the right thing to do.
SAVE THE LODE!!!!