Hey Sandbagger

Post by **gripster** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:23 am

so the grades that come out of the online guide (after being "normalized") don't make it into future guidebooks? no i do not assume you have climbed every route in the red, but i thought you had came up with a pretty brilliant way to get grades and route descriptions without having to do all the climbing!

Post by **SCIN** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:30 am

No, I get the grade from the FA and plug it into the guide. I then usually go out and climb it then check out what others are saying about it then make a decision. The consensus doesn't fully carry the weight. I look at comments, other opinions, 8a.nu, etc. I think almost every route at Bibliothek was brought down a letter grade or two from what I originally received.

Post by **pawilkes** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:30 am

SCIN, thanks for bumping up "Legalize It" at the Crossroads to 12a. it looked mighty tough for an 11 and I was not looking forward to it being a grudge route

Post by **SCIN** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:40 am

gripster wrote: and as a side note, Ray your guidebook is the best I have ever seen, hands down.

Thanks! Hopefully the 3rd edition will be even better.

I'm downgrading 95% of the routes so it should be exciting.

Post by **SCIN** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:42 am

pawilkes wrote:SCIN, thanks for bumping up "Legalize It" at the Crossroads to 12a. it looked mighty tough for an 11 and I was not looking forward to it being a grudge route

I haven't been on that one but I noticed it getting some stiff votes so I bumped it up. It definitely looks way harder than the route just right of it which I have been on.

Post by **Andrew** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:55 am

SCIN wrote: I think almost every route at Bibliothek was brought down a letter grade or two from what I originally received.

Not "Who Pooped in the Park" hahaha

Post by **Brentucky** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:56 am

I use your guidebook as a doorstop, and that is a compliment!

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 2:48 am

SCIN wrote:
pawilkes wrote:SCIN, thanks for bumping up "Legalize It" at the Crossroads to 12a. it looked mighty tough for an 11 and I was not looking forward to it being a grudge route
I haven't been on that one but I noticed it getting some stiff votes so I bumped it up. It definitely looks way harder than the route just right of it which I have been on.

so now you change routes because it appeals to your sensitive side? please change it back....Wilkes needs a few REAL 11's on his list.

BTW, as the FA, please also change Malice to 11d. I refuse to let Wilkes walk out of the Gorge with all the 11's under his belt.

Post by **pawilkes** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 11:27 am

don't worry piggy there are still a number of 11's that i may never do either b/c of choss, bad bolts or difficulty. Beeper, the Poacher, Head and Shoulders, Red Line, and Sacred Stones all come to mind.

Post by **clif** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 11:47 am

nix Head and Shoulders, it's 10d